Thread: Buffing 2k paint

It can definitely be buffed, I've seen the guys at the paint shop my old work used do it. I think auto paint buffing/polishing compound is the way to go.

Some pics might help us first,are you able to post some pics?

Cheers Matt.

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The tiny fragments don't ready show up in the pics though.

You probably have nibs tiny bits of S… that make it into the job,
I haven’t watched this clip.

But this may help.

How To De Nib Clearcoat / Wet Sand And Polish Ep 6 Car Spray Painting For Beginners DIY Series - YouTube

Cheers Matt.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

It can definitely be buffed, I've seen the guys at the paint shop my old work used do it. I think auto paint buffing/polishing compound is the way to go.

I got spots of dust on some spray painted kitchen doors and drawer fronts - not as bad as Geoffs. Painter friend recommended that I simply use auto Cut and Polish cream - It worked a treat, all the spots disappeared and the gloss came up so well that I cut & polished the "un-spotted" doors as well.
[I used Armor brand Cut & Polish Cream.]

He also said that if this did not work, then sanding and respraying was the only option. (Not necessary, for me!)

Originally Posted by Simplicity

You probably have nibs tiny bits of S… that make it into the job,
I haven’t watched this clip.

But this may help.

How To De Nib Clearcoat / Wet Sand And Polish Ep 6 Car Spray Painting For Beginners DIY Series - YouTube

Cheers Matt.

Thanks Matt, I'll have a look.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

I got spots of dust on some spray painted kitchen doors and drawer fronts - not as bad as Geoffs. Painter friend recommended that I simply use auto Cut and Polish cream - It worked a treat, all the spots disappeared and the gloss came up so well that I cut & polished the "un-spotted" doors as well.
[I used Armor brand Cut & Polish Cream.]

He also said that if this did not work, then sanding and respraying was the only option. (Not necessary, for me!)

Thanks Graeme. Can I ask what applicator you used please, was it lambs wool?

Thanks

Originally Posted by garfield

... Thanks Graeme. Can I ask what applicator you used please, was it lambs wool?

Thanks

I just used some rags - a piece of old sheet, I think.

Trivial.

Knock the nibs off with a tungsten denibber.

If it's horrible, use 1000 or 1200 grit with a block to make it perfectly smooth.

Polish with Meguiars SwirlX.

Done.

Thanks for the replies, it seems there's heaps of preferred products to use.

Would anyone suggest I do the sanding by hand or use my air orbital sander that has a regulator fitted?

Also, have discovered 1 or 2 of the doors had deep scratches in them that I've missed while painting and they have shown through. Is there a way I can fix that area maybe by sanding it back a bit and bogging and then the prime and paint without having to re sand, bog and then re paint the while door again?

Thanks
Geoff

Treat them the same as gouges in car paint.... Fill the scratch with the paint, harden it, and flatten with 1000, then polish.

If it's two pack, sanding back, bogging, then redoing the spray will mean spraying the whole door. Feathering is a bastard and will always show up. Best to do only the scratch.

As for sanding, an air orbital is fine. I use a mirka, but anything is fine.

If you are considering a purchase, I've been thinking about one of these. Good for small and touchups...

ZFE 1/2/3 Inch Random Orbital Air Sander, Mini Pneumatic Sander

SI FANG 48Pcs 1'' 2'' 3'' Mini Random Orbital Air Sander Kit

I've a slight preference to Si Fang as I've dealt with them on AliExpress for other goodies and they are the direct manufacturers.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Treat them the same as gouges in car paint.... Fill the scratch with the paint, harden it, and flatten with 1000, then polish.

If it's two pack, sanding back, bogging, then redoing the spray will mean spraying the whole door. Feathering is a bastard and will always show up. Best to do only the scratch.

As for sanding, an air orbital is fine. I use a mirka, but anything is fine.

If you are considering a purchase, I've been thinking about one of these. Good for small and touchups...

ZFE 1/2/3 Inch Random Orbital Air Sander, Mini Pneumatic Sander

SI FANG 48Pcs 1'' 2'' 3'' Mini Random Orbital Air Sander Kit

I've a slight preference to Si Fang as I've dealt with them on AliExpress for other goodies and they are the direct manufacturers.

Thanks woodpixel.

Sounds good to me be better that having to sand it all back then prime etc, do I just fill the scratch as is - it's already painted in 2 coats, so do I need to gouge out the paint from the scratch or just paint or just fill the scratch as is and do the steps you pointed out? I guess I'll need to make up the minimum amount of paint and harden too

And thanks for the link mate but I already have one of those types of sander too, I just don't have the wool pad and a few other things to go with it though.

One thing I've learned from car refinishing is these guys REALLY know their stuff, are SUPER fast and use processes that give PERFECT results with the absolute minimum of time and effort.

Its a strenuous and tiring job, so every shortcut is used.

Garfield, with your question, mix up a little paint and hardener... but you've not disclosed the actual product used... so perhaps the hardener is simply there for speed and the paint may dry of its own accord. Some set with UV

Just make up a little on a tile, mix and syringe it into the gap. No gouging out the existing stuff. Paint will stick to paint.

put it in like worm. Let it form a lump. Once hard, use a denibber to flatten it OR use a razor blade. With the blade, put a piece of tape on either side of the blade and this will let you scrape back to aalllmmossttt the level of the existing paint. Then use a block with 1000 grit, then polish.

Waffle pads are fine for this. Use a bit of water with the Meguiars polish (or other such "finish" polish).


Use this method for the razor blade. The TAPE acts as a "distancer" from the surface and allows you to scrap down to incredibly close. Ignore his 800 papering method - its HEINOUS. Ignore this part!




This video shows the scrape and polish technique.... he uses 800, 1000 then 1500... but this is for a car, a kitchen door 1000 then polish would be fine. DO NOT use the freee-form razor method shown in the video at the bottom.... it will GOUGE your work. Use the razor method above...

Originally Posted by woodPixel

One thing I've learned from car refinishing is these guys REALLY know their stuff, are SUPER fast and use processes that give PERFECT results with the absolute minimum of time and effort.

Its a strenuous and tiring job, so every shortcut is used.

Garfield, with your question, mix up a little paint and hardener... but you've not disclosed the actual product used... so perhaps the hardener is simply there for speed and the paint may dry of its own accord. Some set with UV

Just make up a little on a tile, mix and syringe it into the gap. No gouging out the existing stuff. Paint will stick to paint.

put it in like worm. Let it form a lump. Once hard, use a denibber to flatten it OR use a razor blade. With the blade, put a piece of tape on either side of the blade and this will let you scrape back to aalllmmossttt the level of the existing paint. Then use a block with 1000 grit, then polish.

Waffle pads are fine for this. Use a bit of water with the Meguiars polish (or other such "finish" polish).


Use this method for the razor blade. The TAPE acts as a "distancer" from the surface and allows you to scrap down to incredibly close. Ignore his 800 papering method - its HEINOUS. Ignore this part!




This video shows the scrape and polish technique.... he uses 800, 1000 then 1500... but this is for a car, a kitchen door 1000 then polish would be fine. DO NOT use the freee-form razor method shown in the video at the bottom.... it will GOUGE your work. Use the razor method above...

Absolute legend woodpixel, thanks so much