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Thread: How would you build this screen
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25th August 2020, 11:35 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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How would you build this screen
Hi, I'm building a house. Basically, I'm the owner-builder, though Ive contracted a very good builder to build the house to near-lockup stage. We are just a couple of weeks short of lockup now.
An artists rendition of the house is attached.
One of my first post-lockup tasks will be those slats/screens at the very front of the verandah.
I want to know the best way to go about doing these. Of course I've been thinking about this for some time and have some ideas of my own, but I don't want to lead in with them because I want to hear other people's ideas in an unfiltered manner.
I can say that I want to avoid timber if possible due to warping and requirement to paint. Naturally I want a nice, seamless look and we want them white.
So how would you go about building and fitting these?
cheers
Arron
rendition.jpgApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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25th August 2020 11:35 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th August 2020, 11:50 PM #2Member
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I'd have a look into powder coated steel beams, you can find a bunch of stuff similar used for commercial facades and the like.
Have a look at this website, powdercoated box sections. Assuming you've got a timber framed roof structure it would be a simple job to run this up and attach to some structural members, then trim your soffit lining to fit giving you a flush finish.
Powder coated steel Beams – Ozfine Australia
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26th August 2020, 12:21 AM #3
Typically you would look at a powdercoated aluminum rectangular hollow section - this will be lightweight, stable and somewhat maintenance free.
You could go with a proprietary system such as : Facade Blades - Sculptform (not cheap) or try and fabricate something up yourself.
As for the DIY approach - it will depend a little on the floor / roof structure and the look you are after. A completely seamless solution will require fixing above the ceiling level, and below floor level - hard to tell from your render but you wouldn't want to compromise any waterproofing on the upper level. Easy DIY solution would be a rolled and powdercoated angle fixed to the floor and ceiling and then individually securing each blade from the front or rear.
When you say you are near lockup - was there any thought put into how to fix these as I would have thought it would have been able to integrate the solution into the build.
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26th August 2020, 11:30 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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That’s pretty much what we had in mind. I was thinking of securing each blade with a single screw top and bottom. I had thought of a small lug bolted to each blade top and bottom rather then a continuous angle.
Alternatively, I might get a bit creative and recess either the top or bottom fixing, so the blade is pushed into a slot at one end, and screwed in at the other.
I Was thinking aluminium. I hadn’t thought of steel or if I did I discounted it because of concerns about rust. Can someone clarify what disadvantages there may be (if any) in the use of steel?
Surfmist Colorbond steel, rectangular with cross section of about 75 x 25 - very affordable - just need to understand the downsides.
Cheers
ArronApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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27th August 2020, 02:25 PM #5
totally left field and presuming its not weight baring, and only as decoration aesthetic appeal, have you thought of 40 - 75 high pressure PVC pipe.
being pressure pipe it wont flex, wont rot, wont fade
excuse my stupid ideas.not enough coffeeI would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds
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27th August 2020, 02:31 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Left field is what I wanted.
I’ll have to look at this idea more closely.Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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27th August 2020, 03:36 PM #7
C purlin, get a panel better to spray them and if you wanted the hollow effect gal sheet cut to suit and either pop rivet or just use Sikaflex Pro.
I recently bought some 150 C purlin for a mezzanine in my shed, $50-00 a lengthThe person who never made a mistake never made anything
Cheers
Ray
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27th August 2020, 04:53 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Whilst I appreciate hearing the left field alternatives, I pursued the simple approach of just sourcing rectangular hollow section raw metal a bit further.
This quote I s from a local merchant (not the cheapest by any means)
75mm x 50mm x 1.6mm Gal RHS 68 @ 2800mm $2652.00
76.80mm x 50.80mm x 1.6mm Ali RHS 68 @ 2800mm $3219.00
Cutting charges $240.00 , allow 3-4 days
Charges for powder coating in white are about $550 for the lot.
Me handling pick up and delivery in my ute.
If going this way, I just need to think about how to fix. Currently I’m thinking weld a lug to top and bottom, and fix each one individually through the lugs. Perhaps 2 coach screws per lug.
Maybe getting a piece of metal angle bent along the 3400mm semicircular radius would be better. I could just fix through holes drilled in the angle.
Anyone have any advice or better ideas on this?
Anyone know where I could get the metal bent (Central Coast preferred, Sydney or Newcastle second preference).
Cheers
ArronApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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28th August 2020, 01:57 AM #9GOLD MEMBER
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why would you get gal? you'd just be covering one rust preventive coating.. .with another. price up bare or painted steel instead.
also angle doesn't bend really well especially into circles, you would have to cut a heap of slits into it for it to bend.
how to attach them is a hard one, with out seeing what the actual balcony looks like and how its meant to be finished.
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28th August 2020, 08:08 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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I suggested gal because I didn’t fully trust painted steel. This house is waterside (actually there is a road between us and the water) although it’s an estuary not the ocean side. Rust here is not a big problem - no worse then it was in our last home in NW Sydney. Can I trust the powder coating not to rust in this situation?
Describing the construction of the balcony. Both the balcony and the roof over it are framed up with lvl’s, supported by some big bits of galvanised structural steel. The undersize Of the roof has some timbers in place Flush with the proposed ceiling, mostly taking the form of a curved strip of 16mm ply which should be ok to screw each slat into somehow. The ceiling of the deck will be Aquacheck. The cladding around the parapet is NRG foamboard, which continues down about 50mm below the ceiling level which should be quite good at hiding any gaps from the street level. The ceiling is currently not lined so I can take steps to fit more timbers to make fixing convenient if need be. Exactly how the fixings would fit in relation to the acquacheck I haven’t worked out yet - it would be nice to get it all flush but it’s not essential.
The floor of the balcony has in place that dense fibre cement board whose name escapes me right now. That will be waterproofed professionally, as is required in this state. It’s still accessible from underneath so I was going to check to make sure there is plenty of well placed timber to screw into. I was expecting to screw whatever fixing I used through the fc into the timbers below, and let the waterproofer sort out the waterproofing. We should have one on site for a discussion about the whole job soon so I was going to discuss the feasibility then.
The slats of the ground floor will just be a repeat Of the first floor, except the lower ends will be attached to a low masonry wall not built yet.
Re bending the angle. What other shape will do the job, be reasonably inconspicuous, and will bend well?
Another option would be to get some gently curved flats, and weld about 4 slats to each flat, then just screw in the flats. There are about 34 slats per floor, so there would be about 8 groups of slats. I don’t know whether this would present problems painting.Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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28th August 2020, 08:36 AM #11GOLD MEMBER
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I think you are asking for maintenance trouble doing it in steel. Powder coated aluminium will be a far superior option.
Also I am not a fan of trying to radius bend a section around the top and have exposed fixings, you have the opportunity to install trimmers before lining the soffit and fit some spigots that your vertical sections can slide over with a rivet or screw in the side for support.
Line the soffit before fitting the batterns otherwise you won’t get a very satisfactory finish around them later plus it will be more labour intensive ( expensive) for the Gyprocker to fit it
With the base, I assume you will be tiling on a bed over the membrane? I would fix a concealed reverse angle into the finished tiles under each vertical section so that your membrane is not compromised and your tiles are not all cut into small pieces
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28th August 2020, 08:58 AM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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fading is a big issue with any material you use I would suggest Aluminium due to corrosion of steel eventually BUT it will fade and not look so good.
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28th August 2020, 09:01 AM #13GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks Beardy,
Yes, I’m heading towards aluminium and with a little more ringing around I got a price on the aluminium the same as the steel I quoted above. Also, the powdercoater I spoke to strongly advised alu as a better process and sounder result.
Lining the suffits first will mean the fixings sit on top of the aquacheck and are screwed through to the solid timber above. Is that what you meant - will the aquacheck give me a firm enough bed?
How do you suppose the spigots will be mounted. Are you thinking they would be welded to a curved flat bar which would then be fitted to the ceiling ? Or are you suggesting each spigot would be screwed in individually ?
Yes, it will be tiled and we are not looking forward to the cost of that so I don’t want to make it any harder for the tiler.
Cheers
ArronApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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28th August 2020, 09:58 AM #14GOLD MEMBER
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Depending on how clean a look you are after but I would be looking at individual mounting points screwed through your soffit lining into your timber framing, depending on what section size you choose for your vertical slats it could be a short piece of aluminium angle or you might find a U section that will fit snuggly inside your slat that you could cut and screw into place and fit the slat over it.
Essentially what I am saying is make each slat look like it is just a neat snug cut piece between the tiles and the soffit with your fixing brackets/ spigots concealed as best you can
Your plasterboard ceiling will be fine to screw through, just on that point I think you will find you cannot use aquacheck on ceilings and will need to use either standard plasterboard or a FC type villa board style product.
Be very mindful of the detail you choose around the perimeter of the balcony ceiling to form a decent drip edge so that rain does not track under and soil your set joints
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28th August 2020, 10:51 AM #15GOLD MEMBER
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Ok, thanks.
Btw. All three of the plasterers which we had come in to quote went for aquacheck - their view being fc would look a bit ‘agricultural’. I will have to do some further enquires.
Cheers
ArronApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
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