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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Tasmania
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    1

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    I am in the process of doing this for the third time, different houses. This time I am using upmarket form ply. I made the base for the bench out of two layers of structural ply which I had covered in stainless steel. The drawer hardware is Haefele. It is an old house with wonky floors so I used adjustable plastic feet, and utilised the space for kick board drawers. All working well. But not quite complete.
    I did have the luxury of an existing kitchen in another space so time was not a problem. My saw bench is a Triton, so anything is possible! Cost for carcasses, drawers, bench top, and all associated hardware is around $6000, so far. Cheers and good luck.

    Chris


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  3. #62
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Altona North, Melbourne VIC
    Posts
    223

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    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight Man View Post
    ...........Sometimes, building a kitchen has nothing to do with cost, and everything to do with the self-satisfaction and pride that comes with looking at something and knowing you did it yourself.

    This is why I got into Woodworking and wanting to do things myself. Full stop.

  4. #63
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Northern Beaches, Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    329

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    Just be aware with some of those flat pack supliers that they use a relatively poor quality melamine board. It generally has a type of flat feel to the surface unlike the good quality board that is glossy. We've seen a few over the years and you can nearly see through the melamine to the substrate below. And it should always be HMR board ( but you already knew that didn't you ) !
    We have used a local company to cut up panels, vanities and whole kitchens for us for years - Bills Boards at Chatswood ( no affiliation ). Great service.
    If anyone wants the excel spreadsheet I use for kitchen cupboards send me a PM.

    Stewie
    Last edited by Stewie D; 25th May 2018 at 01:22 PM. Reason: typo

  5. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,556

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    It isn't the fact that its flat or glossy that sets the standard. Melamine is available in both finishes. The quality of the substrate and or the paper sets the standard. Course substrate causes "telegraphing" while thin paper can also show the underlying substrate.

  6. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Altona North, Melbourne VIC
    Posts
    223

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie D View Post
    Just be aware with some of those flat pack supliers that they use a relatively poor quality melamine board. It generally has a type of flat feel to the surface unlike the good quality board that is glossy. We've seen a few over the years and you can nearly see through the melamine to the substrate below. And it should always be HMR board ( but you already knew that didn't you ) !
    We have used a local company to cut up panels, vanities and whole kitchens for us for years - Bills Boards at Chatswood ( no affiliation ). Great service.
    If anyone wants the excel spreadsheet I use for kitchen cupboards send me a PM.

    Stewie
    That GoFlatpacks place uses 16.5mm HMR Melamine, so I think that should be adequate.

  7. #66
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,121

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewie D View Post
    Just be aware with some of those flat pack supliers that they use a relatively poor quality melamine board. .......

    Hi Stewie

    Not just flat pack suppliers. I have had staff at both Bunnings and M10 assure me:
    • HMR melamine does not exist,
    • HMR melamine is no longer made,
    • HMR melamine is no better than ordinary melamine,
    • HMR melamine is too expensive to stock, etc


    16mm HMR melamine is more than adequate for kitchen cabinets. I used 18 mm HMR melamine because the extra thickness is more foregiving of errant screws and it only costs 10% more.


    Cheers

    Graeme

  8. #67
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,556

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    Well Graeme, they do say Tassie's 50 years behind the times and if that's the case, maybe they're right.

  9. #68
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    5,121

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustynail View Post
    Well Graeme, they do say Tassie's 50 years behind the times and if that's the case, maybe they're right.
    Nah, Rusty

    We are at least 100 years behind, and proud of it.

    The issue is probably more about the gene pool at Big-Chain.



    Cheers

    Graeme

  10. #69
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    301

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    My suppliers advise me that although the term HMR is still thrown around in the market, it is no longer relevant. Board is now only available in either Standard or MR.
    Craig

    Expert /Ex-Spurt/ -n. An "Ex" is something that has been or was. A "Spurt" is a drip under pressure.

  11. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,556

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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Nah, Rusty

    We are at least 100 years behind, and proud of it.

    The issue is probably more about the gene pool at Big-Chain.



    Cheers

    Graeme
    The best period of my life was spent in Tassie. Wouldn't change it for a thing. Think I will go back there to die. Seems everybody else is.

  12. #71
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Altona North, Melbourne VIC
    Posts
    223

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    Well, incase anyone is interested, I've managed to source the cabinets ( custom flatpack ) for under $6,000. The entire kitchen, including $10k of appliances and major renovation work ( new floor, levelling, new plaster and lighting + plumbing moved and new electrics ) is going to come in around $32 - $33k.

    Am paying to have the countertops made as I simply don't have the space or time to do it, but could have save a bit if I DIY'd those. But glad to pay the money given we are able to do this for nearly half of what was quoted - including high end Miele appliances.

    Thanks to all on this thread for the guidance & ideas. It all helped immensely. Will post some pics once it's done - but below is my Sketchup of the plan.



    20180621_225030.jpg

  13. #72
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Carine WA
    Age
    74
    Posts
    679

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    Hi

    The new kitchen looks great *EXCEPT* for the floor. If the new floor is a step up as shown in the drawing, DON'T DO IT! This will be a major trip/safety hazard. Many times when moving food/utensils to/from the kitchen you cannot (easily) see the floor in front of you. I believe if you do this step up, you will regret it. When (if?) you ever sell your home, it may be something that MANY prospective home buyers will reject and potentially limit sales prospects.
    Kind Regards

    Peter

  14. #73
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Altona North, Melbourne VIC
    Posts
    223

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    I hear ya, but there is already a step there ( the house steps down into a large sunken open family area - where the tiles are shown ). The lower part isn't so much kitchen, as it will be a breakfast bar area. This is just how the house is ( even now ) and can't be changed without major major changes which would be pointless - like moving up doors and windows. I've thought about it, but there is no point.

    5 years living here, and we haven't tripped yet, so I think we'll be fine!



    Quote Originally Posted by MrFixIt View Post
    Hi

    The new kitchen looks great *EXCEPT* for the floor. If the new floor is a step up as shown in the drawing, DON'T DO IT! This will be a major trip/safety hazard. Many times when moving food/utensils to/from the kitchen you cannot (easily) see the floor in front of you. I believe if you do this step up, you will regret it. When (if?) you ever sell your home, it may be something that MANY prospective home buyers will reject and potentially limit sales prospects.

  15. #74
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Whangarei, New Zealand
    Age
    70
    Posts
    282

    Default

    We just moved into our new house, and I did the kitchen myself - birch plywood cabinets and drawer fronts, saligna benchtops, some purpleheart for accents. Tracksaw, router, biscuit jointer the main tools, and my trusty assembly table.
    Using Blum drawer hardware and Hettich hinges the price tag worked out pretty much as you said ... 30-35k NZ$, including just over 10k for appliances.

    Big point for me: no MDF used at all, no edge banding. This kitchen is going to look as good (if scratched and worn) in 15 years time: no hinges working loose and no edges coming off and swelling, no worries about a bit of water causing
    mayhem.

  16. #75
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Whangarei, New Zealand
    Age
    70
    Posts
    282

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