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  1. #1
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    Apr 2014
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    Default bulk removal. with angle grinder help.

    Hi all,
    I have a slab of kauri that is 1600 wide and 2.5m long. With it being quite a soft timber I was thinking that I would like to give a go of removing the bulk of the saw mill cut lines with an angle grinder (I have an adjustable speed angle grinder) which i've seen before. But my dilemma is I've never done it and I'm unsure as to what to use for removing the wood. Is a flap disk good enough? I've not used it for sanding before so I've never gone down the path of purchasing sanding disks for it, I would be more inclined to get a carbide plate to use it for sanding or something similar to reduce wastage. The reason why I want to give this a go instead of using my belt sander? To learn new techniques.

    Thanks in advance I really appreciate the help I always get on here.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    The problem with a flap sander on soft wood is one slip and then there is a gouge that requires a whole lot more wood from the rest of the table to be removed.
    A slip is likely after you get tired of waving the angle grinder around.

    If you want to learn a new technique I'd recommend trying a jack plane. It sounds daunting but it is much quicker and safer than you think.

  4. #3
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    Default

    As BobL has said will certainly do the job.

    However, if you are wanting to level the slab and remove the rough bits, consider making up a sled and use a router to do he smoothing and levelling. The job will take a while but the finish off the cutter will ensure that it is even with no gouges where the softer and harder bits meet. Using a grinder will nearly always leave an uneven surface as you are working the machine at an angle to the flat surface.
    Regards,
    Bob

    Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

  5. #4
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    Aug 2010
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    Default

    A router with a surfacing bit set up on a sled and and rails.

    If you need me to elaborate I'll try after work as on lunch now

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

  6. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveTTC View Post
    A router with a surfacing bit set up on a sled and and rails.

    If you need me to elaborate I'll try after work as on lunch now

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

    I would love it if you elaborate.

  7. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    The problem with a flap sander on soft wood is one slip and then there is a gouge that requires a whole lot more wood from the rest of the table to be removed.
    A slip is likely after you get tired of waving the angle grinder around.

    If you want to learn a new technique I'd recommend trying a jack plane. It sounds daunting but it is much quicker and safer than you think.

    I am pretty cool with using a jack plane but I don't own one and I'm a but unsure of the outlay of coin for one if after this table I never use it again. Although I do recall hnt having a kit for around 100 bucks that I could buy and build and then level the slab…..

  8. #7
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    IMG_3117.jpgIMG_3115.jpg

    This a rough router sled I made up a while ago. 3 pieces of plywood screwed together to just fit router in with groove cut for router bit. This ran along 2 bits of 4*2 milled to same thickness. And the 1 1/2 bit I used.IMG_3119.jpg

    Worked a treat.

  9. #8
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    I do it like this.


    Pete.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete View Post
    I do it like this.


    Pete.
    So do I, but it's not exactly the cheapest way to go about it
    Well, almost the same way; I run it lengthwise.

  11. #10
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    It's a bucket load of fun though.
    But so is doing it with a jack plane...... Not!

    Pete.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pittwater Pete View Post
    I do it like this.


    Pete.
    Oh cool do you have that in brisbane where I can use it for about $100 to do the slab?

  13. #12
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    Sorry - Sydney.

    Pete.

  14. #13
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    Hi wilkeswood,
    After the pissing contest finishes you can get back to what the very average wood worker could use to surface you're slab and wow what a slab it must be 1600 wide that is impressive indeed. As stated earlier I would stay right away from flap disk you will do more damage than good great for doing edge of slab natural edge work but not flat surfaces. The router sled is a simple and easy to make yourself and gives a good surface to work with two parallel and in wind sides and a trough for the router to slide back and forth in across the top of the slab as long as the slab is supported and cannot move the sled will give great results for you.
    Regards Rod.

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Gilbert View Post
    Hi wilkeswood,
    After the pissing contest finishes you can get back to what the very average wood worker could use to surface you're slab and wow what a slab it must be 1600 wide that is impressive indeed. As stated earlier I would stay right away from flap disk you will do more damage than good great for doing edge of slab natural edge work but not flat surfaces. The router sled is a simple and easy to make yourself and gives a good surface to work with two parallel and in wind sides and a trough for the router to slide back and forth in across the top of the slab as long as the slab is supported and cannot move the sled will give great results for you.
    Regards Rod.
    Rod,

    Yes I am an average woodworker as I'm also a full time soldier, and not someone who needs to make himself feel like a legend by being annoying. It is a whopper of a slab, I'll try and get a pic of it. I have a little left over ply and I think I might try and make one of those sleds to go on the ground and do the slab like that and it sounds like a great and inexpensive jig that will come in handy down the track also. Unlike that video of a really good machine.

  16. #15
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    It looks like some good help has come to the fore. If you uave any more questions about a router sled happy to help as others are too.

    Love to see pics of your progress

    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

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