Thread: Butterfly/Bow Tie Dimensions

best I can suggest is to look at some of George Nakashima's work

Thanks Ian,

The reason for the question, it that sometime ago I 'thought' I had read of some suggested dimensions - hence the enquiry.

Another thing, should the crack be compressed slightly prior to installing the butterflys, or just as is?

I have recently seen a Hawaiian fellow using them in his threaded boxes turnings and natural edge bowls! Much smaller scale but they look awesome...
(Doesn't help your inquiry though sorry)

I think it's just a matter of 'what looks good' as long as they are strong enough. One thing I have found is that it helps to put a slight taper from top to bottom, on both the plug and the hole. You can then tap the plug home and get a good fit.

Or you can cheat a bit and use brass bolts like I've done before filling with clear resin

Table1.JPG bolt.jpg

Niel's bolts got me thinking. It does not need to be butterflies all the time. Any shape with a waist like the letter I, dog bone shape, the letter S would also work or metal hooks in resin could be used. Should be a few others spring to mind in a while.
Regards
John

when using butterflys purely for visual interest, I do what ever I like. but if I am using butterflys to tie two pieces together structurally. I will make them 3/4's the thickness of the workpiece I am tieing together.

Originally Posted by orraloon

Niel's bolts got me thinking. It does not need to be butterflies all the time. Any shape with a waist like the letter I, dog bone shape, the letter S would also work or metal hooks in resin could be used. Should be a few others spring to mind in a while.
Regards
John

Indeed. Google Leon Sadubin and have a look at his 'signature' shape on some of his furniture.

Originally Posted by AlexS

Indeed. Google Leon Sadubin and have a look at his 'signature' shape on some of his furniture.

Couldn't find anything relating to his 'signature' shape.

Do you have a link?

I looked into this a few years ago and all the answers came back "..same as a dovetail" . ie you are putting two dovetail tenons back to back with the slopes as for hardwood . Also the grain must run down the length of the butterfly.
Richard

This is the one I had in mind.
http---yaffa-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com-yaffadsp-images-dmImage-SourceImage-Sadubin53_table111.jpg

I like that.
Regards
John

Quick question on the same topic. Should the timber be a similar weight, density or structure as the piece you're repairing/reinforcing?
I.e. a Mulga bowtie in huon slab?
Or better to go for cedar in huon?

When I am mixing species that need to sit side by side flush to each other just like with a bowtie or long grain cuttting boards, I try to use similar hardness timbers. Makes it easier to level the surface with sanding or even planing/scraping if your NOT trying to level a rock in a pool of jelly.