Thread: Ml 392

Giday Ross. You should put some wax on the table top and then buff it off. This will help enormously. The feed of the timber varies greatly depending on what type it is as well. Rough cut will be different to dressed etc.

I suggest you read this thread as well. It answers everything.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...highlight=saga

cheers

At the risk of sounding dumb - which wax is best?

Originally Posted by Moo73

At the risk of sounding dumb - which wax is best?

I use Ubeuts traditional wax but there are many others. Don't use silicon spray or it will get into your raw timber and ruin any other finish you put on it.

Originally Posted by Moo73

At the risk of sounding dumb - which wax is best?

Do as the Gumby man say, The fine wax products brought to you by this boards owners represent fine value for money, and prove themselves in all manner of ailments, both in the shed and home.





How's that Neil, huh, huh, am I a good boy.

If you need to get going before you can get out to purchase some wax, just rub the table with a candle.

Bob, while you're here, that bl**dy rubber ring around the drive wheel to engage the feed rollers came off again yesterday. They are really loose now, after a year of wear. Has yours got the same 2 rings or do you have the one piece moulded one? I'm calling Carbatec tomorrow to see if they'll get me a new one.

While we're on the 392 do you blokes use the supplied spanner to set the blades? mine says its a 7 mill but is to loose to use, it rounded one of the nuts the first time i used it. I bought a 1/4" but that was a fraction small so the actaul size is somewhere in between.

Originally Posted by DavidW

While we're on the 392 do you blokes use the supplied spanner to set the blades? mine says its a 7 mill but is to loose to use, it rounded one of the nuts the first time i used it. I bought a 1/4" but that was a fraction small so the actaul size is somewhere in between.

I used the supplied one. The spanners i have are all too thick to go in the gap. The supplied one is a bit loose but worked OK, now you've got me worried.
It's marked '7' so i assume it's metric.

Hi Gumby. I still have the original rings. Last time I looked they were showing signs of needing a shave. I have not had the cover off for a while, so don't know what is waiting for me. I am interested to see how you make out with Carba-Tec.

I use my own spanners when adjusting the blades. Don't remember seeing any supplied spanners. Must look in the drawer that contains all the goodies that come the various tools.

Originally Posted by BobR

Hi Gumby. I still have the original rings. Last time I looked they were showing signs of needing a shave. I have not had the cover off for a while, so don't know what is waiting for me. .

If they come off, you'll know about it :eek: What a noise !

I'll let you know how I go with C/tec.

Gumby, my supplied wrench is very loose and wont grip the bolts enough to turn them. I bought a 1/4" because it is about 6.35mm but I will drop into Glenfords on the way home tonight and get a decent 7mm to try.

I havent gotten to really use the beasty yet as I am still setting it up. I put the magnets on the outfeed to align it to the blades but they were lower at 1 end which is why I wanted to lossen the blades. Mind you it could be that the table is a little off but im not sure what I would measure that against.

I guess if I set both tables to 0 and align them to each other then set the blades they should be right....or should I do the blades first???

Unfortunately my workshop time has been very limited lately, typical after finally getting the new saw and combo, maybe I can scrounge a couple of hours this weekend.

David,
It's a tricky thing this blade setting stuff. If you use the magnets, then all will be fine in the jointer mode. But unless the outfeed and infeed tables are exactly parallel to the bottom table used in thicknesser mode, you will be out. Mine has this problem and I've only just worked it out. I get a very marginal difference when thicknessing, depending on which part of the table i feed the work through. It takes off more on one side than the other. It would mean resetting the upper tables to compensate and then using the magnets to do the blades again. I don't se how you can do this easily, except a bit of trial and error.
The difference in mine isn't enough to worry me greatly, especially with stock which isn't all that wide.

Gday Ross, sry for hijacking your thread, as stated wax the table but also you might try winding the table up a bit higher. I had the same problem as you and I kept winding up the table, taking maybe 2-3 mill off and running scrap through and after 2-3 passes it all lossened up and feeds fine now except the timber can scew off to 1 side. I suspect that this is a symptom of the blades not being properly set.

Gumby, I think the answer is to get the top and bottom tables aligned with each other then setting the blades in jointer mode should also set them for thicknesser mode.

I had a quick look last night and there are 2 bolts, 1 either side of the top table locking devices that look like they could be used to adjust the position of the jointer tables up or down on 1 side. It may be possible to use these to align the top to the bottom table.

Guys, since we've gone back to some general ML 392 stuff, I've posted a new item on the original thread here:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=14610
It's probably better if we go back to that one so we can keep building on all the good info and advice and keep it together for future reference.