Thread: Buying second hand tools - is this deal worth it?

Originally Posted by Aretheyalltaken

I did reply to this on my phone and it seems to have eaten my reply. I would post pictures but I think my account is limited as its new - if I find a way I will definately do so.

Even though you are new here you should still be able to post pictures but maybe only from a PC. Sometimes others have posted pictures in their first post.
I'm interested to see that saw. Here's a big one being used by Matthew Cremona but no idea what brand it is. Just skip to the 7:30, 11:00, 14:20 & 19:10 minute marks to see it in use. Reading through the comments under the vid it is a 16" Beam saw. Must be fairly common over there. Link
I wonder if the one you are looking at is made for Australia and 240V or the US 110V and using a stepdown transformer.

One thing to check that might have been overlooked.
Regarding the saw - the size of the saw shouldn't be intimidating - after all you only need to raise as much blade as needed for the stock that you are cutting.
The large saw will have plenty of grunt as well, and that is always a plus.
However - check the arbor for "float" in operation.
Some saws develop a movement of the blade sideways as the arbor "floats" in and out of the motor housing.
If this is happening the blade will never cut straight.
You can test it with the motor turned off by seeing if there is any sideways slop or movement of the blade.
With the motor running you will be able to see the blade as a thick blur moving from side to side - instead of spinning in a constant plane.
Check it and see
Tom

Well what do you know - thank you! Then if they don't make this blade size anymore, I should bank on having to replace the whole saw right? Because once the blade goes I can't get a replacement?

Originally Posted by Scribbly Gum

One thing to check that might have been overlooked.
Regarding the saw - the size of the saw shouldn't be intimidating - after all you only need to raise as much blade as needed for the stock that you are cutting.
The large saw will have plenty of grunt as well, and that is always a plus.
However - check the arbor for "float" in operation.
Some saws develop a movement of the blade sideways as the arbor "floats" in and out of the motor housing.
If this is happening the blade will never cut straight.
You can test it with the motor turned off by seeing if there is any sideways slop or movement of the blade.
With the motor running you will be able to see the blade as a thick blur moving from side to side - instead of spinning in a constant plane.
Check it and see
Tom

Thank you for your advice. Cutting straight is something I just took for granted - good to know that it can be an issue for a saw this old. Can you confirm that this article (How to Fix a Worn Table Saw Arbor | WWGOA | WoodWorkers Guild of America) describes the problem you're referring to?

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

In retrospect, I regard the Triton Mk 3 as a great learning tool, not a forever tool. I learned so much that I would never otherwise have attempted.

This was my feeling too. Right now I'm planning to use the table saw mainly for ripping bigger sheets of plywood and for cutting dados to make shelves and the like. At the moment I have no way to make dados at all. For ripping plywood I've been using a spirit level and a circular saw, or a compound mitre saw depending on the stock size, but the circular saw is a faff to set up frankly.

Originally Posted by Treecycle

Even though you are new here you should still be able to post pictures but maybe only from a PC. Sometimes others have posted pictures in their first post.
I'm interested to see that saw. Here's a big one being used by Matthew Cremona but no idea what brand it is. Just skip to the 7:30, 11:00, 14:20 & 19:10 minute marks to see it in use. Reading through the comments under the vid it is a 16" Beam saw. Must be fairly common over there. Link
I wonder if the one you are looking at is made for Australia and 240V or the US 110V and using a stepdown transformer.

Here's some pictures the seller sent me if it helps..seems like 240V in any case which is a relief

IMG_20210812_102728 - Copy.jpg

IMG_20210812_102736 - Copy.jpg
IMG_20210812_102732 - Copy.jpg
IMG_20210812_102741 - Copy.jpg

Originally Posted by Aretheyalltaken

Thank you for your advice. Cutting straight is something I just took for granted - good to know that it can be an issue for a saw this old. Can you confirm that this article (How to Fix a Worn Table Saw Arbor | WWGOA | WoodWorkers Guild of America) describes the problem you're referring to?

No, that is to fix a loose fitting collar onto the arbor.
In some hand circular saws the whole arbor/ axle that the blade sits on moves in and out of the motor housing.
It is unlikely that this will be a problem on your saw as these old "Made in Japan" Ryobi's were very well made and were a direct competitor to Makita in their day.
That blade is very big but you can buy replacements if you ever need to. Of course you can simply get the saw blade re-sharpened and saw doctors will even re-attach tungsten teeth if needed
The Router is near bulletproof - if it has been used heavily it may need new brushes, but that is an easy fix.
For the price asked - this is a good deal I think
Tom

I plan at this stage to be in Adelaide 5-7Sept down Morphett Vale area if I can help you out anyway on the Monday prefer later afternoon either visiting seller if not sold or whatever.
I started with a Mk3 progressed to a 2000 and have since upgraded again.
am not the greatest woodworker but think I've been around long enough to spot rubbish from quality

So I've read the Triton Mk3 manual cover to cover.. Boy some of those pictures with hands way too close to the blade make me nervous

How important is it if the saw is missing the guard? I would never want to operate without of course but are spare parts available? This is the Triton guard, not the guard on the circular saw.

Originally Posted by Tonyz

I plan at this stage to be in Adelaide 5-7Sept down Morphett Vale area if I can help you out anyway on the Monday prefer later afternoon either visiting seller if not sold or whatever.
I started with a Mk3 progressed to a 2000 and have since upgraded again.
am not the greatest woodworker but think I've been around long enough to spot rubbish from quality

Hi Tony.. That's so kind of you thank you. I'm planning to go see the seller today and probably will buy so will be too late for you (plus I am North - other side of town) . But it's so kind of you to offer to help out I sure appreciate it.

I will watch every safety video I can find to make sure I can use this safely but if I have any questions would it be OK to ask you? I'd go and visit a men's shed to get help if I could but I'm neither a man nor do I think my area has a shed (maybe I should start one!)

OK take a deep breath and go look for SANE Makerpiece.they are a community workshop of all mixes and breeds but so willing to help and teach.
I would suggest go look at the Triton stuff but don't commit yourself until AFTER visiting and talking with this group. They have more equipment than you will ever need. You may be better off using their machinery and learning rather than buying your own gear and then deciding its not for you.
find them on FB they are in Holden Hill

Originally Posted by Tonyz

You may be better off using their machinery and learning rather than buying your own gear and then deciding its not for you.
find them on FB they are in Holden Hill

Uhoh. It might be a bit too late I didn't see this message before I went over there. I will update this thread with better photos of everything set up but it turned out to be quite a fair amount of stuff. It was a nice older person who didn't want to co tinue with the tools so I felt like I could trust him with the sale. If it turns out it's not for me there's no reason I couldn't sell them on as they seem pretty solid with plenty of life left.

In case youre wondering it ended up being 2 mk3 units, one with a router table on top, the other with the monster 15" saw. The saw has been custom fitted to the top plate to allow for the bigger size. It is still removeabke in the usual way.

I also have a spare top that has not been modified should I want to swap out the saw for a smaller one.

Together with this was extension table which I've seen on some sites which is for cutting extra wide material like whole sheets of plywood. Also a triton mutil stand to support longer pieces.

Plus the super jaws and the engineering jaws and serrated jaws for awkward materials I'm not sure there's much that Triton made that was not in this set hahaha. I think I was very lucky to get what I got, I'm grateful to have found the tools. But I will be taking your advice and hooking up with the makerspace people, learning using their space is a much better idea I don't know why I didn't think of this first before buying my own. Oh well!

SANE South Australia North East.
I know a young couple who were converting a van, bought themselves a sewing machine to make curtains then realised they didn't know who to use it.
Found makerpiece ... 3 months later left on a trip around Aust with a completely renovated camper van

Originally Posted by Aretheyalltaken

So I've read the Triton Mk3 manual cover to cover.. Boy some of those pictures with hands way too close to the blade make me nervous .....

Good reaction; stay that way. Also have a look at the many, many Triton videos - and with the same reservations. Clowns can make videos.

... How important is it if the saw is missing the guard? I would never want to operate without of course but are spare parts available? This is the Triton guard, not the guard on the circular saw.

The splitter is very important when you are ripping - it stops the wood from closing on the saw blade and becoming a projectile. (Remember, a third of table saw "accidents" are from stuff being thrown from the blade.)

When cross cutting, the guard is still important in keeping straying fingers away from the blade.

But that combined splitter/guard is one of the annoying features of the Mk 3 in that it is attached to the table top and not directly to the saw. It is fiddly and cumbersome to align the saw blade in its primitive cradle so that it aligns precisely with the splitter. If it is not aligned accurately then the timber will catch on the splitter.