Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,205

    Default Cabinet doors with mirror panels

    So building a wardrobe for the misses, for the doors looking at doing timber framed doors from 19mm thick stlye / rails using domino tenons incld a mid rail.

    Doors approx 350mm wide 2100mm high.

    Instead of a timber panel was thinking of using mirror

    anyone think that this would be issue

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Melbourne S.E Burbs
    Posts
    476

    Default

    Using 3mm glass, at 7.5kg per square meter you're looking at around 5.5kg of glass per door, plus the weight of your frames and whatever backing material you choose. Backer would need to be rigid to avoid flex and cracking the glass. You'd want to make sure that your joinery and hinge selection is up to the task. One of the glaziers I buy from says that they don't really work with 3mm any more...just 4mm. I'm not sure if that's a prevailing view but it adds 25% to the weight if so.

    I assume there'd be some Australian Standards for this kind of application - relating to glass type/surface area size/backer type etc. Maybe toughened glass in case it cracks - if mirrors even come in toughened?

    I'd suggest you talk to the glaziers that you're going to buy the glass from and get some pro input from guys that do it for a living. If there's a sale in it for them they'll probably give you some advice rather than fob you off, but make sure you ask someone that does installs, not just a glass supplier.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,550

    Default

    I've made cabinet doors about that size, with no backing on the 4mm glass panel doors, and have had no problems with it. As long as your joinery is good the doors won't sag. One thing to think about is how to replace the mirror if it gets accidentally broken. I have slots at the top of the doors so new glass can be slid in if necessary.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    moonbi nsw Aus
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,065

    Default

    What I have done in the past is, mill the doors as per normal (stick and cope) but mill away the timber to change the groove for a rebate. The glaziers will steer you to use 4mm mirror with heavy vinyl sheet stuck on the back. This will give you the safety feature so if its broken the vinyl stops the pieces from stabbing you. To secure the glass, once you have put your finish on the timber door, lay it face down and "glue" the mirror into the rebate. Don't use too much and try not to use so much that it spews out into the mirror surface (because its hard to clean up) You will have to leave the door for a couple of days to be sure the Silicone is cured.
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,205

    Default

    Thanks

    I was considering using 3mm mirror stuck to 3mm ply backing.

    asfar as the joinery wasn't going to cope /stick just square with tenons.

    i like the rebate idea just got to see if the misses is happy with back of door like that, I could put laminate over back of mirror

Similar Threads

  1. Hanging panels for cabinet
    By draco in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10th May 2009, 06:29 PM
  2. Sliding Mirror Doors in cabinet
    By ptrott in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 19th September 2005, 11:24 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •