Thread: Moving machines around - best spot for combo jointer/thicknesser

You need to knock a hole through to adjoining bedroom and tape up it’s door

btw n4400 uses about a 5” dust connector. Great saw. Best thing I got for mine was the wheel kit and steer stick

I would rotate the saw and thicknesser 180 degrees and move them towards the door enough to allow feeding room from them to the back wall. This allows timber and/or sheet products to be delivered through the door, dumped at the tailing end of the machines and then individual pieces drawn back over the saw or jointer to be fed into the required machine.The sliding table on the saw comes in very handy for this and also acts as a sliding bench for pieces as they wait their turn through the planer. This set up leaves both sides of both machines with clear access allowing both machines to be operated at the same time if necessary.
An awning over the door would increase your available floor space dramatically.

Originally Posted by AndrewPatrol

You need to knock a hole through to adjoining bedroom and tape up it’s door

btw n4400 uses about a 5” dust connector. Great saw. Best thing I got for mine was the wheel kit and steer stick

Yeah, I wish! This is double brick basement half underground, on the low side of our sloping block. It’s basically under the house. That little room at the back is an enclosure for a DC, that vents to externally.

Good to know about the 5”. Should be fine, I’ll get an adaptor collar. I’m generally running 6” all the way, and sizing down at the machines. Works great, never needed more suction on any machine yet!

Hi roger, I have my bandsaw setup to outfeed on the fence side of my tablesaw (this is usually dead space for me), I find this works well as I generally use the tablesaw for crosscuts and the bandsaw for rip cuts. The table on an N4400 is quite small so putting an insert between the rails on your saw and using that maybe a useful solution.
IMG_20200417_130048.jpg
Rowan

Originally Posted by rustynail

I would rotate the saw and thicknesser 180 degrees and move them towards the door enough to allow feeding room from them to the back wall. This allows timber and/or sheet products to be delivered through the door, dumped at the tailing end of the machines and then individual pieces drawn back over the saw or jointer to be fed into the required machine.The sliding table on the saw comes in very handy for this and also acts as a sliding bench for pieces as they wait their turn through the planer. This set up leaves both sides of both machines with clear access allowing both machines to be operated at the same time if necessary.
An awning over the door would increase your available floor space dramatically.

Interesting ideas. If I understand you right, this flips the workflow to go from back wall out toward driveway. I feel like that could be awkward for sheets and long boards. You’ve gotta pass them over the table first? Can’t see it in the photo, but I have a ceiling mounted blade guard with dust extraction (shark guard). If that is down, passing big stuff to other side would be hard.

I have vertical vertical storage at front for boards and full sheets to 2.4m. Sheets I generally breakdown on tracksaw over foam on the driveway - they’re too hard to move around in the shop. Half sheets and glued panels can be cut on the table saw or with dogs using the MFT top of the assembly table.

I’m also left handed, and for some reason, the orientation of bench to my LHS of saw infeed makes more sense to me.

Something ti think about though, I can see the merits of your suggestions. Thank you!

Originally Posted by barramonday

Hi roger, I have my bandsaw setup to outfeed on the fence side of my tablesaw (this is usually dead space for me), I find this works well as I generally use the tablesaw for crosscuts and the bandsaw for rip cuts. The table on an N4400 is quite small so putting an insert between the rails on your saw and using that maybe a useful solution.
IMG_20200417_130048.jpg
Rowan

That’s a great setup and I’m Jelly of all you delicious Hammer gear. A3 31 will probably be my next big purchase, although after spending a day restoring and tuning up my $450 straight knife planer, I’m surprised at how good a result I can get out of it. Will be a few years before I upgrade I think.

If I had a permanent setup where I didn’t park a car, I’d do something similar to this, but it doesn’t work for now, because machines either have to stay on the walls, or get rolled out. I think I’d prefer to have bandsaw stay in the wall, permanently connected to dust extractor. If I married it up to TS, the setup becomes a bit of an operation each time.

Originally Posted by rogerwilco

Yeah, I wish! This is double brick basement half underground, on the low side of our sloping block. It’s basically under the house. That little room at the back is an enclosure for a DC, that vents to externally.

Good to know about the 5”. Should be fine, I’ll get an adaptor collar. I’m generally running 6” all the way, and sizing down at the machines. Works great, never needed more suction on any machine yet!

Hold off til you get the saw cos the port is a wierd 5” . I’ll try to remember and measure tomorrow

Being a leftie is a PITA for the machines. The jointer is back the front, the bandsaw is OK but feels weird.... BUT I like the fact I used my right on the table saw.... if there were a mistake I can still sign my name


Personally, I thought the BS where the bin is marked. Leave the jointer where it is.... oorrrrr, put it over near the BS against the wall.


Barramonday has the right idea for a neato setup! I like that!

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Being a leftie is a PITA for the machines. The jointer is back the front, the bandsaw is OK but feels weird.... BUT I like the fact I used my right on the table saw.... if there were a mistake I can still sign my name


Personally, I thought the BS where the bin is marked. Leave the jointer where it is.... oorrrrr, put it over near the BS against the wall.

Yep. I’m somewhat ambidextrous and don’t really notice any disadvantage on router table or table saw. Jointer feels weird but I’m getting used to it. This will be my first bandsaw, so I guess I’ll find out soon.

And, great call! It’d be perfect to get the jointer along the wall in the middle, and I think it’s possible. Was avoiding it because There’s a lot over there already, however, it has a narrow footprint, so should be able to sneak it into a semi permanent spot right next to a DC drop if I do a bit of Tetris. Router table, jointer, bandsaw. That would keep DC simple too.

Originally Posted by AndrewPatrol

Hold off til you get the saw cos the port is a wierd 5” . I’ll try to remember and measure tomorrow

Totally! Learned the the hard/normal way. I don’t order that stuff ahead of time anymore - I take the fitting to the shop and check. Inevitably it doesn’t fit (usually exactly the same diameter as the connector!) and so then the dance begins, to find the right combo of adapters for a push fit that doesn’t fail 2 minutes later!

In general terms, the jointer/thicknesse can be up against a side wall with consideration to an opening such as a shed door for processing longer lengths of timber, the bandsaw on a mobility base and the table saw should be front and centre, again preferably with access for longer lengths.
A mitre saw station could be placed up against the 'back wall' but alternatively a mitre saw on castors or foldaway wings might also work too.
Think of how you process the timber, for me it is to joint a face and edge then thickness to desired thickness. Trim length at the mitre saw so that an entire length may not need to be sized on the table saw for with. Then onto the table saw and then back to the mitre saw for final sizing and then a slither off the saw cut alrady done on the table saw.

This is only what works for me and I am sure others have different ways of processing timber. If I am resawing timber then I just get a face and edge square and then resaw and then back to the jointer...

All the best in your endevours.

I have the bandsaw setup behind the panel saw as well. great spot and you can utilise the panel saw table surface.

IMG_0998.JPG

Originally Posted by tomartomau

In general terms, the jointer/thicknesser can be up against a side wall with consideration to an opening such as a shed door for processing longer lengths of timber, the bandsaw on a mobility base and the table saw should be front and centre, again preferably with access for longer lengths.

Yep, that's basically what I'm going for, and fits my process fairly well. For some reason I thought I didn't have space, but it looks like I do. See the photos after re-arranging things slightly. Everything fits nice.

I will probably need to swing the bandsaw to the wall when not in use, because it'll block access to driver door. The car door clears the jointer no problem. I can easily access the rolling stack of toolboxes. And getting the router out is no big deal. To actually use the bandsaw and jointer, I'd have to move them off the wall, but that's a tiny thing and if DC ducting is RIGHT THERE, and connected, or ready to connect, that's a piece of wee. With the jointer/thicknesser DC connection flip-flopping from side to side for each operation, this set up will be significantly easier and tidier than running stuff on the floor or overhead. Win win I reckon.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

Being a leftie is a PITA for the machines. The jointer is back the front, the bandsaw is OK but feels weird....

Originally Posted by rogerwilco

Yep. I’m somewhat ambidextrous and don’t really notice any disadvantage on router table or table saw. This will be my first bandsaw, so I guess I’ll find out soon.

Re being left handed.
I'm curious -- as a leftie, can the bandsaw be set up with the blade on "backwards"? i.e. the BS is arranged so that the table is on the left relative to the BS blade.
Of course the bearing guide at the back of the blade would need to be remounted so that the "backwards" blade pushed against the thrust bearing, but apart from that detail, why not do as I suggest. Is there something in the setting up of a bandsaw I don't know?