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Thread: Card scraper burnisher
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29th October 2019, 07:48 PM #16GOLD MEMBER
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I couldnt remember what the veritas one was the reason why i originally had my mind set on that was purely because of the brand - I figured I didnt need to think too hard or do research and know that it was going to work. For something relatively cheap might as well buy veritas it wasn't like i was dropping a few 100s on chisels or planes. that obviously went out the door when I couldnt find one online to buy and ended up doing actual research lol. hopefully this thread helps someone in the future though
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29th October 2019 07:48 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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29th October 2019, 09:05 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
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I got chastised the last time I mentioned this but an exhaust valve from a car cylinder head with the head cut off it and a handle to hold the shaft will do the job and it will cost basically nothing to put together.
CHRIS
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29th October 2019, 09:12 PM #18
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30th October 2019, 01:57 AM #19
What about a pinion gear as a burnisher?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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31st October 2019, 05:15 PM #20
My polished File burnisher showing two of its edges. One wide and one tight radius.
IMG_2642.JPGIMG_2643.JPG
Rob
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31st October 2019, 07:28 PM #21
Rob, do you use the flat(s) or the edges? Have you tried both? Curious about the difference the width makes on downforce, and the resultant hook.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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31st October 2019, 09:53 PM #22
Yeah I use the edges Derek . The corners .
Ive never used the flats I don't think . Unless I was flying through the job and didn't realize .
I made the burnisher with one domed or larger radius as the top user .
The two tight ones were either side of its base as I used it .
It wasn't to long ago that I needed a aggressive hook and thought Id give one of the tight ones at the base a go . It made a big difference. A noticeably larger more aggressive hook. I'm not into light passes . First drawing out the hook ( I forget what it’s called , with scraper on its side ) Then three sometimes four firm hard pressing down with scraper upright and burnisher on the bench is how I was tought, after doing one light one first . And Ive stuck with that.
Rob
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1st November 2019, 10:51 AM #23
Rob, that’s in line with my experience. The carbide burnisher I made and use is a thinner-than-usual rod ... about 3/16” (from memory ... anyway, about a third thinner than all else I have used). A friend (who manufactures steel) sent it to me about a decade ago. It is polished, and has remained slick. I quickly discovered that it required much less downforce. A triangular burnisher makes sense as well. A file would also be harder than the average burnisher, and a good way to re-purpose one.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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17th November 2019, 12:19 AM #24Senior Member
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Last year I forked out AU$65 and bought a Veritas burnisher from Carbatec the same as this one
Veritas Tri-Burnisher | Burnishers - Carbatec
Try as I might, I just cannot get a decent cutting burr by using this tool on any of my scrapers. I've tried and tried, over and over again using different techniques and pressures but all I manage to get is a scraper that produces sawdust instead of thin shavings.
It now sits unused in a cupboard, and I do my burnishing with an old 6" long round nail punch that I've had for many years, it does a much better job on my scrapers, does it more easily, and gives me a burr that cuts lovely shavings.
You live and learn, but it's a $65 lesson I rather not have had.
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17th November 2019, 09:33 AM #25
$65 and it doesn’t work !! Give it a test with a file and see if it bites in or slides off .
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17th November 2019, 10:51 AM #26GOLD MEMBER
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Mine works ok. If it was not hard enough I suspect you would see damage to the burnisher itself.
CHRIS
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17th November 2019, 12:03 PM #27Woodworking mechanic
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I’m with Chris. Mine works fine
Just tried to file it. The file won’t touch it
053EAB52-CC2C-4FA1-91DB-0DEF024F3D1B.jpeg
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17th November 2019, 04:46 PM #28rrich Guest
Redx,
First, in the Veritas picture, the burnisher is being used wrong. The burnisher is being held perpendicular to the card scraper. The burnisher needs to be held at a 15° to 30° angle. You should push down with a consistent amount of force. You will get the feel for it. As you push the burnisher over the card scraper sort of slide it to the high end of the burnisher. It is an awkward movement and takes a bit of practice. Work first on the straight edge card scraper until you are getting the edge that you want. Then do the curved scrapers.
I don't know if this is a problem or not but you really need to file the edge straight and true before attempting to burnish the hook onto the scraper. That is with every sharpening.
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17th November 2019, 05:18 PM #29
Not 15-30 degrees, in my view and experience. The hook is created in two separated strokes. The first is a set of 3-5 lights strokes at 5 degrees, followed by another 3-5 light strokes at 10 degrees. I would not recommend greater than this angle as you will end up tilting the blade forward very far.
Keep in mind that before all this takes plane, the edge needs to be (1) made square and flat, and (2) the steel drawn out slightly, which is there for the hook. The hook does not appear from nowhere! This may be an issue at present.
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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17th November 2019, 06:25 PM #30
The edge should be filed and also dressed up square on its two sides and edge on both sides . I do this part twice . The more square smooth and true the better the finish .
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