Thread: Casting resin or epoxy adhesive

Any of the unthickened marine epoxies should be fluid enough - their basic viscosity is pretty much the same as polyester resin (golden syrup like).

I've used both successfully - either Diggers casting resin or West System epoxy. The trick is to firstly, clean it out well and clean with acetone, then fill large voids a bit at a time. Let the first bit set before pouring the next lot. If possible, overfill by building a dam around the void with hot-melt glue.

Use a Syringe and you will be able to get into the hole no problem

I used long setting Sellys without an issue. It was a deep crack in a piece of mallee and it penetrated with no issues. I taped up all of the exits with blue tape and as another poster indicated overfill to allow for shrinkage.

I think any slow set epoxy should have enough flow. I think it is the rapid set or epoxy with filler that seems to have less fluidity.

John

I recently had a similar requirement and ended up going with glass coat from http://glasscoat.com.au/.

It is expensive but it worked a treat as its fluidity (or viscosity) is really high.

Thanks for the input. I had thought that the filler would flow around and harden the decayed wood but have started to clean it out. Dremel with a grout cutter helps.
Will wash with acetone, have obtained a syringe and the idea of using hot glue for a dam sounds good. Probably try Diggers and see where I get to, the more I clean, the bigger the cavity.

Proportions are important. Get graduated eyedroppers or syringes to measure accurately.

Doing by weight is often the easiest. After you convert the volumetric ratio into weight ratio. weigh part A then put in as much of part B until the weight hits A+B and you are ready. You need a digital scale though.