Thread: What would cause this ?

Hi Garfield,

I have the same saw.
Is there a bushing in your blade? Maybe check to see if it is the right one or in good condition.
Also check out this guy's YouTube channel. He has modified his MLT100 fence. The stock fence is really flimsy. I built his one and it's great. No flex.

Tarlochan Singh: Part 1 | Makita MLT100 Table Saw Fence DIY Upgrade Replacement - YouTube

Meant to post last night but was having problems posting pic.

Attached are pics of how I built my Makita MLT100 into a table saw workstation without the router table.


I copied a guy on YouTube called "ask woodman" making a biesmemeyer style fence. The fence actually turned out really nice, it works and slides well along the support and is very accurate for the measurement of width but I feel it does flex a bit when I push through bigger pieces.


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have you ever run a dial indicator across the face of the fence to make sure its true to the mitre slot... and then to the blade?

if there is a decent amount of flex in it, it could be what is causing the issue?

Garfield, from your description I assume you're making some type of cabinets (kitchen or wardrobe)?

Yeah Lance. Trying to make Cabinets for the Wife's laundry.

Is your blade really sharp? Melamine can be cut successfully using a Contractors Saw as long as the blade is sharp and the bulk of the material being cut is supported to make pushing through the cut is "easy"

Thanks for the reply and tips chambezio.

I found that even with a sharp melamine blade and my scribe blade set up on my sliding table saw I too get a tiny amount of chipping. Thinking the cuts through to make sure that the edges that will be seen are on the non chipped side is my answer.

Thanks Dave. Have actually watched a few of your youtube vids of you doing it.

You haven't mentioned what blade you're using?

All worn off the stamp, but I believe it's a 254mm Makita 60 Tooth blade. I reckon you're onto something with the thin kerf blade.... I'm thinking it has something to do with it.

Why not use your track saw? I made a couple of jigs based on Peter Millard & others on YouTube. My very old contractor saw (guessing 50+ year) cannot cut anything that wide.
Cutdown sheets on the floor to manageable sizes then up onto a table & used jigs similar to below to get to final sizes - but glued & screwed jigs as wanted something longer term than double sided tape.
TW P4; DIY crosscut jig [video #280] - YouTube
TW P5; DIY Parallel Guides [video #281] - YouTube

Thanks for the links Pete

As lance mentioned, your cutting the short side...how are you feeding this through your saw?

If all else fails.... try your best and gap the rest.

Thanks

Here's another jig to help with crosscutting square with a hand held saw or tracksaw.
Was it only the crosscuts that were wavy or the long sides as well?

Thanks Treecycle

The fence, mitre guide and sliding table could be better on the Makita MLT100.

If cabinet dimensions aren't critical, you could straighten and clean up the edges with a router against a clamped on straight edge (or using an edge on an uncut board). This will leave it cleaner than a tracksaw.

I normally use a tracksaw for cutting melamine.

Yeah pretty crappy right out of the box. Has served me well for the last 9 or so years but I must admit.

Thanks

Hi G. I have the Makita jobsite saw too and I don't think you will have much luck cutting sheet goods on it unless you build a big enough crosscut sled and mount it in a bench (is this what you meant when you said work station)? The gaps in the cabinet are easily fixed with some gap filler.

Gap filler will be getting a work out Mountain Ash.

Thanks

Originally Posted by BEM

Hi Garfield,

I have the same saw.
Is there a bushing in your blade? Maybe check to see if it is the right one or in good condition.
Also check out this guy's YouTube channel. He has modified his MLT100 fence. The stock fence is really flimsy. I built his one and it's great. No flex.

Tarlochan Singh: Part 1 | Makita MLT100 Table Saw Fence DIY Upgrade Replacement - YouTube

Thanks for the reply. I have checked and from what I can see it looks to be OK. Thanks for the link

Originally Posted by havabeer69

have you ever run a dial indicator across the face of the fence to make sure its true to the mitre slot... and then to the blade?

if there is a decent amount of flex in it, it could be what is causing the issue?

I haven't as I don't own one but maybe time to invest in one. Thanks

Originally Posted by AlexS

Go on, buy the table saw, you know you need it!

I so do Alex.... I so do.