Thread: Is this chair repairable?

The problem with repairing that break is that it is just above the seat base side rail tenon. I can't see how you can repair it without compromising the whole joint. Replacement of the leg would seem to me to be the best option. Is it a Parker/Chiswell chair? Teak?

I would dowel it, lots of glue surfaces in that break. Obviously a bit of fiddling and cleaning once you get the back off.

if the back does not separate a clamp in reverse would separate it enough to squirt glue in. If looks were not important you could router a dowel slot ( tenon slot) in each side and place an appropriate piece of wood .

cheers

Thanks for the responses.
It's a Parker chair - one of a set of six.
The backrest is glued onto the top leg and detaching it could result in even more problems to solve.
Inserting a dowel won't be possible if I can't get the back off.
I like the idea of gluing the join as best I can and then routing a tenon slot and trying to find a matching piece of wood.

Here's an example of using a router to repair chair legs.

Thomas Johnson repairing a damaged chair using a router to replace timber in broken sections.
Not the same repair, but you get an idea of the router jig you would need.

Repairing a Contemporary Chair - Thomas Johnson Antique Furniture Restoration - YouTube

Hope this helps.

Jeff

Originally Posted by Jeffen

Here's an example of using a router to repair chair legs.

That's nice work. People wonder why it costs so much to have something like that done, they should have a look at that video.

If the chair is Teak, Scott, and you aren't able to round anything suitable up I have some here that I'd be happy to send you.

Cheers,
David

Great video. They must have really liked that chair. Goodness knows what that job would have cost.

The damaged chair was dropped off to me a little while ago.

I'm pretty sure it's teak, so David if I can't find any I'll give you a yell. I live in the same street as Anagote, Sydney's seller of special timber, so they'll give me an offcut if they have any.

Repairing (vs restoring) furniture I not something I have done much of, but the owner of the chair can't use it and has not had much luck finding anyone to help her.

I'll drop in and see a local I know tomorrow and get his advice. He's one of the nicest blokes I have ever met and will be happy to tell me whether I'm kidding myself: https://www.piecefurniture.com.au/

A common problem with this style of chair. I have repaired them in the past by routing a vertical groove up the back of the leg, 2/3rds of the thickness of the legs. This,of course, means the existing dowels are "compromised" but, if the groove and spline are kept narrow enough, say 5mm, the the dowels retain enough integrity to be fortified by the spline when it is glued into position. Basiclly forming a tenon through the dowels. The ends of the mortise and the ends of the spline are chamfered both sides to form a point which helps to "soften" the end grain butt joint that would otherwise be quite evident at the top and bottom of the finished spline. Glue up with a thin epoxy glue.
This method of repair only exposes a 5mm wide strip up the back of the leg which can be colour tinted to match the existing so the need for a matching piece of stick is not necessary.
Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by rustynail

A common problem with this style of chair. I have repaired them in the past by routing a vertical groove up the back of the leg, 2/3rds of the thickness of the legs. This,of course, means the existing dowels are "compromised" but, if the groove and spline are kept narrow enough, say 5mm, the the dowels retain enough integrity to be fortified by the spline when it is glued into position. Basiclly forming a tenon through the dowels. The ends of the mortise and the ends of the spline are chamfered both sides to form a point which helps to "soften" the end grain butt joint that would otherwise be quite evident at the top and bottom of the finished spline. Glue up with a thin epoxy glue.
This method of repair only exposes a 5mm wide strip up the back of the leg which can be colour tinted to match the existing so the need for a matching piece of stick is not necessary.
Hope this helps.

Thanks Rustynail.
That does help.
What would help even more would be if I could develop the ability when people seek me out for help with things I have never done before to say, 'Yeah, nah. A bit tricky for me.'
My plan is to edge apart the break and get glue in there and bring it together for a day or two.
Then I will make a jig and with a router make a 5mm wide slot up the back of the leg.
I'll aim to get in about 15mm and chamfer each end.
I'm thinking around 180mm long.
I've never really used epoxy glue. Is there a readily available brand you could recommend?
Scott

Originally Posted by scottbr

Thanks Rustynail.
That does help.
What would help even more would be if I could develop the ability when people seek me out for help with things I have never done before to say, 'Yeah, nah. A bit tricky for me.'
My plan is to edge apart the break and get glue in there and bring it together for a day or two.
Then I will make a jig and with a router make a 5mm wide slot up the back of the leg.
I'll aim to get in about 15mm and chamfer each end.
I'm thinking around 180mm long.
I've never really used epoxy glue. Is there a readily available brand you could recommend?
Scott

Scott, My epoxy of choice is West System 105 resin mixed with 206 slow hardener. For a small job like yours I would suggest it would be easier to use Araldite Clear Epoxy. Araldite comes in the small syringe type dispensers which make it much more convenient. Equal parts of the Araldite makes a good consistancy for your task. I did suggest thin epoxy earlier but please dont think I was refering to the thin pour on type resin epoxies. These are way too thin for this type of repair and can end up becoming a glue starved joint when used in tight fitting joinery.
I use a small hand held circular saw to run the groove in the leg. Set the saw to depth required, place the tip of the foot on the leg and lower the blade into the timber until the sole of the base plate sits flat on the leg. You can widen the slot with a chisel if you want a thicker spline.
No need for a jig doing it this way but you do need to chisel out the bottom of the groove to flat.

Originally Posted by rustynail

Scott, My epoxy of choice is West System 105 resin mixed with 206 slow hardener. For a small job like yours I would suggest it would be easier to use Araldite Clear Epoxy. Araldite comes in the small syringe type dispensers which make it much more convenient. Equal parts of the Araldite makes a good consistancy for your task. I did suggest thin epoxy earlier but please dont think I was refering to the thin pour on type resin epoxies. These are way too thin for this type of repair and can end up becoming a glue starved joint when used in tight fitting joinery.
I use a small hand held circular saw to run the groove in the leg. Set the saw to depth required, place the tip of the foot on the leg and lower the blade into the timber until the sole of the base plate sits flat on the leg. You can widen the slot with a chisel if you want a thicker spline.
No need for a jig doing it this way but you do need to chisel out the bottom of the groove to flat.

Thanks again for the advice.
A circular saw for the groove, huh. I can see how that would work. I would still need a jig or at least a guide. When the time comes, I'll experiment with the router and circular saw and see which one I feel most comfortable with before I take the plunge.
I've had an additional thought of how to strengthen that join, but it's hard to explain. I'll take photos as I do it.
Scott