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Thread: How to Bevel an Edge
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19th June 2015, 12:56 AM #1Senior Member
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How to Bevel an Edge
Hi Folks,
I have what I think is a fairly simple question. I'm putting together a small home music studio and would like to make a cabinet for some rack gear. I'd like to make something like the sloping-fronted cabinets seen here http://www.drford.com/ although I'm thinking of using internal battens (not sure if that's the correct term) for the front face so that the gear is recessed a bit. What I'm not clear about is how to bevel the edge of the top batten (this is the only one that needs a long beveled edge). I have a range of hand and power tools including a Triton MKIII but I don't think I can do a bevel with it without making a jig. Can it be done with hand tools? If so, how?
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Chris
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19th June 2015, 04:32 PM #2Taking a break
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You can do it with nothing more than a hand plane. Just mark the angle on the ends, mark a straight line between them and plane away.
An electric plane will make it faster, but isn't necessary.
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20th June 2015, 12:23 AM #3Senior Member
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20th June 2015, 03:19 AM #4
WHS re hand plane.
Could use jointer if many pieces for consistency, but may be dangerous depending on width of stockGlenn Visca
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20th June 2015, 07:33 AM #5
Those cabinets look like they are veneered chipboard with an applied solid edge strip. The top and bottom strips have probably been beveled on a square board by passing through the table saw with the blade angled, cleaned up with a hand plane, then cut off to required width with the blade set back to vertical. Can you tilt the blade on a Triton?
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20th June 2015, 10:50 AM #6Senior Member
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20th June 2015, 11:22 AM #7
I read somewhere that you can tilt the saw when set up in cross cut mode and bevel anything up to 700mm wide? Nail your stick securely to a carrier board so it can be held safely in cross cut mode and rip it. Maybe that applies to a different model Triton.
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20th June 2015, 02:17 PM #8
Found a link on the MK3 crosscut operation. I guess a lot would depend on how wide your intended cabinets will be.
http://www.tritontools.uk.com/mk3crosscutsaw.html
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20th June 2015, 02:22 PM #9Senior Member
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20th June 2015, 03:44 PM #10
Exactly. Fuzzie is correct. This is a moulding of solid timber that is first ripped at an angle and then applied.
Chris, you would need the bevel fence for your Triton ...
Not cheap, however. Here is an eBay link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Triton-Bevel-Ripping-Guide-BRA200-/121657260096
However it can be done by hand. All you need, assuming you are building in solid wood, is to saw the carcase, leaving the upper and lower sections projecting. Then mark/scribe these sections to match the bevel, plane away the bulk with a jack plane, and smooth level with a jointer plane or even a smoother. Pretty standard stuff if you are comfortable with handplanes.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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20th June 2015, 06:03 PM #11Senior Member
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Thanks, but there's a couple of extra problems. Firstly, I'm not sure if that guide would fit on my MKIII Triton, and also I don't think it's worth me getting one even if it did because it's only a couple of cuts.
Secondly, the case itself is ply so planing it isn't an option (I think) however, I'm not making the cabinet in exactly the same way as those shown. I'd like to use internal battens recessed a small amount rather than mouldings that attach outside the cabinet (if that makes sense). As such, the outside of the cabinet doesn't need to be bevelled (it would probably look better but it's not that important). What matters is that the battens follow the shape of the sloping front face and it's the top one that's the problem as it needs a bevel. I was thinking that it mightn't need a bevel but it would look a bit strange if it was at a right angle to the top rather than following the angle of the face (I hope that makes sense - I really need to use Sketchup!).
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