Large Chess Board

[double.d]

Hi all, i was hoping for some input on issues i have with an upcoming project.

The client wants a chess board with 105mm squares, so yes, the board will be a minimum 840mm square.
It will be made from Red Cedar and Jacaranda.
The client has requested that board be able to be dismantled into smaller pieces, so my first thought would be to make 16 pieces of 4 tiles each? i think 4 boards of 16 pieces would be easier

My concerns are,
Should i make the tiles 19mm thick? or say, 10mm thick with a 9mm backing? i would be concerned about bowing with this method.
What method can i use to join the 16 pieces together? i keep coming back to the slot and pin method where the pieces are mated off set and then one is slid to lock it in place. I have done a search for these fittings but i don't know what they are called so can't narrow it down.

There are a lot more questions but any views on the above would be welcomed.

[LanceC]

Should i make the tiles 19mm thick? or say, 10mm thick with a 9mm backing?

Have a look at this post from auscab last year talking about solid vs veneer thickness.

I helped someone rescue a project earlier this year after they tried gluing 12 mm solid timber to 18 mm MDF. Their expectation was that the MDF would stabilise the timber as it wasn't very stable to begin with. Unfortunately the MDF didn't stand a chance against the solid timber moving. Either use stable solid timber only, or a thin veneer against a stable backing. For something that size however, I'd lean more toward the second option.

[pippin88]

Why do the want to pull it apart?

Strong neodymium magnets could be used to hold segments together

[Scally]

I think the veneered MDF would be the easiest and most stable.

A flat sawn checkerboard might want to cup.

I'd suggest doing a Butcherblock with the solid 19mm pieces to have a better chance of keeping the board flat.


The magnets should work well.

You could cut it into a 4 piece Jigsaw puzzle so the parts lock together.
A scroll saw would give the cleanest and finest cut. It should cut the Cedar and Poplar without too many dramas.
A fine toothed blade on a bandsaw and a steady hand should work too.
My initial thought would be to try for an almost invisible join. But my skill isn't that good so I would give the edges a very small roundover.
It makes the join a feature and draws an attention away from any small irrgeularities.

If you want to be really silly you could join the 4 square parts with sliding dovetails.
Any wood movement would mean you would need a hammer to assemble it.
Not my recommendation.

[double.d]

Why do the want to pull it apart?

Strong neodymium magnets could be used to hold segments together

He said he wants it to be broken down so it can be moved around. I think a board of that size would be an even harder task to make and keep stable.

I like the magnet idea, thanks.

[double.d]

Have a look at this post from auscab last year talking about solid vs veneer thickness.

I helped someone rescue a project earlier this year after they tried gluing 12 mm solid timber to 18 mm MDF. Their expectation was that the MDF would stabilise the timber as it wasn't very stable to begin with. Unfortunately the MDF didn't stand a chance against the solid timber moving. Either use stable solid timber only, or a thin veneer against a stable backing. For something that size however, I'd lean more toward the second option.

I like this idea from Auscab,

Use 4mm onto ply and glue the 4mm down with a 4mm overhang of the ply. Glue a frame around flush with the ply , mitered at corners. Then veneer down over the frame and match side veneers with top veneers. To get a thick look . If you wanted to get real fancy the under side of top veneers could meet the side with 45 degree join and same at side corners.

I think i'll try this with 4mm tiles over 19mm ply using poly glue then put a 30mm high border around each square of 16 tiles and use the magnets. I could even make 64 seperate pieces, veneer over MDF with the edges veneered and make a carry case for them. The chess pieces are made from concrete so i could make a case for those as well. I'm sure he would go for that .

Thanks for the replies, if anyone else has another angle please let us know.

[taz01]

Rather than slot and pin, could magnets be an option?