Chopping Board Help

[broncfront]

Hi All,
I'm just starting out my first woodworking project to make a Chopping board. Not an end grain, a long grain chopping board.
I had a few questions I'm hoping you might be able to answer for me. My biggest concern is that seeing its for food use do i need a special glue? Aquadhere says its non toxic but is it ok? I've found titebond2 is FDA approved in the USA for indirect food contact but I'd have to order it over the internet as I can't find a close distributor.

Also I'm a bit restricted on wood choice as I'm in Rockhampton so bunnings has pine or tassie oak, tassie oak is my preference as I prefer its colour. But can I stain a chopping board? or should I just oil it. I saw that Feast Watson do a chopping board oil and Gilly Stephenson's orange oil is also suitable but i believe they dont stain the wood other than a slight darkening/wetter look.

Thanks

[elanjacobs]

AFAIK, most PVA glues are non-toxic. You might be able to use a water-based stain but I'd advise against it as it may still leach into whatever you're cutting. As for oiling, you can use vegetable oil or any of the specialist oils that are safe for food contact.

Stay away from pine, it'll get chewed up in no time.

[vk4]

AFIK<

remember tata these boards will be immersed in HOT WATER. Aqahere , is not water proof in these instances.

I saw you mentioned TITE-BOND 11 , this will follow the same fate in hot water..

if you are laminating the board from small width strips , seriously use EPOXY GLUE, It is waterproof and your board will not self destruct ( fall apart), the glue lines should be such that they will only be a line between the strips with out gaps .
Exposure to the epoxy should there for be minimal.

Any good quality Cooking Oil, Macadamia, Walnut, Rice Bran etc, will seal the board, I would route a channel around the Board 12-15mm in from the edge, this will catch any juices from meat when it is being craved,.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

[Trav]

I have made many board with titebond 2 without any sign of delaminating or separating. But I don't actually ever put my boards in hot water. I scrape them with a modified paint scraper and wipe them with a hot wet sink cloth. This issue has been covered many times before, so it is worth searching for some answers.

I don't think aquadhere is considered food safe, but it has been ages since I used it.

I most definitely wouldn't stain the board - in fact, I don't even put a finish on my boards. They get a worn, loved look after a while. It is only a breadboard after all, not a display piece.

Trav

[broncfront]

Ok thanks for all the info. As I am laminating the board from small width strips I think I'll go with the epoxy glue and see how I go. I normally just wipe down my boards but i know if i make one and the thing falls apart in my wifes hands I'll never hear the end of it.

Time to research routers now.

[pjt]

Hi bronc,
If you want a different selection from that found at bunnies I have a few more species that might be suitable if you want to come round for a look
What about Selleys pva exterior, could be suitable no idea on how waterproof/resistant or toxicity in relation to food prep, maybe a phone call to Selleys?



Pete

[Arry]

I have used Tightbond III, food safe and strong, there is no need to ever soak in hot water? - just wipe it with a hot cloth and dishwashing liquid etc

In terms of finish, I used Parraffin oil which I believe they call Mineral Oil in the USA.

[broncfront]

Pm sent Pete

[bridger]

I really prefer cutting boards made from a single plank. no glue to fail. choose a wood with tight grain- no open pores. some species can trigger alergic reaction for some people, be aware of that. some species metabolize minerals which can dull your knives quickly. I'm not familliar with aussie species so I can't be more help, unfortunately.