Thread: circular saw best option?

When I had a wood fire at a previous address, I was burning recycled floor joists that were full of nails and no use for anything other than firewood. I put an old blade from my triton steel cutter into a 7 1/2" circular saw and cut them up with that, nails and all. I held the timber in triton superjaws to cut it. I could cut a weeks worth in a few minutes.

Cheers

Doug

Hi Ross,My brother uses an old ryobi drop saw for cutting all his recycled timber to fit into his fire. Very quick and safe. You could likely pick one up second hand very cheap.RegardsBart

Hi There

I use and have been for years using an Ozito drop saw 210mm to cut up firewood such as you describe. The Ozito does not have the quality for precise cutting in terms of woodworking but is good for the way I use it.
Bunnings have a similar saw at the present time for $65.00.

regards. Ned

I would suggest (as above) a cheapish dropsaw also. Much safer than a circular saw (not as much chance of kickback) and its much easier. Provided you don't come up against large pieces that need to be cut then a dropsaw is the way to go. better on the wrist too!!

Just my 2c

Cheers

Gab

Thanks a lot, guys. A dropsaw looks the go (had never heard of that type of saw!).

Just one thing - how does the drop saw stay stable? Is it clamped to a bench or something like that? If so, do you reckon I should get a work horse? The wooden table has taken a bit of a bashing from being used as a workbench, and if I'm going to clamp the timber I'm thinking I could probably do with something tougher than the wooden table. Any recommendations on a good basic work horse that would do the job? (Is "work horse" even the correct terminology?)

Cheers!
Ross

I use a 12" DeWalt.

Mine mounts to bench.

Yes clamp or screw it down may be good but not necessary. so long as you have a stable place to sit it and support the wood.

Ideally you want a well in your top so the top of your saw sits level with the work surface either side

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Ideally you want a well in your top so the top of your saw sits level with the work surface either side

Thanks for your response Dave, but I don't understand what you mean by a "well in your top" - could you elaborate, please?

Cheers
Ross

Have a look at post 26 in this thread. You may not want something this complicated, but it represents what Dave was saying.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/scms-dust-extraction-187025-post1804955



Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710a using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Glenn.Visca

Have a look at post 26 in this thread. You may not want something this complicated, but it represents what Dave was saying.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f200/scms-dust-extraction-187025-post1804955



Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710a using Tapatalk

Great link. I have never been able get it to go dirrect to a specific post.

Yes much like that bench set up but rather than have it open between supports I have with an older saw bench had flat board nailed on the timber supports to create a continuous top.

I have just used a saw on the ground and with a brick to hold the other end of the timber too. This would be a pain at any time but even more so when cutting a lot of wood

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Ah, OK - gotcha now. The pics on that linked-to page make it very clear, especially the bottom one. I guess I can just use a brick at either end on my wooden table, with the saw in the middle.

Thanks guys!

Just one last question, please. Do you think a reciprocating saw would be suitable for my purposes? Seems a bit cheaper and maybe safer than a drop/compound saw. Just wondering...

Cheers
Ross

It will be very slow and personally inw i uld not bother with a recipricating saw. Blades dont last as ling and will likely cost more in the long run..

Not sure if others agree on the costing

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

Originally Posted by DaveTTC

Great link. I have never been able get it to go dirrect to a specific post.

Yes much like that bench set up but rather than have it open between supports I have with an older saw bench had flat board nailed on the timber supports to create a continuous top.

I have just used a saw on the ground and with a brick to hold the other end of the timber too. This would be a pain at any time but even more so when cutting a lot of wood

Dave TTC
Turning Wood Into Art

I use my drop saw on the floor (almost the ground). But I don't use a brick for the other end. I found that a salvaged skateboard with the upturned ends cut off is exactly the same height as the bed of the drop saw. And it has wheels. Should work on a table too.

Cheers,
Joe

Thanks, Joe and Dave. That just about sorts it out - drop saw it is, although no old skateboards lying about, so I might need to resort to bricks on my wooden table. I see now I got the price wrong, too. Drop saw is cheaper. I was confusing one saw with another.

Cheers guys
Ross

You will like using a drop saw, but they're a bit cumbersome to move around (particularly if you have arthritic wrist) it also won't like being rained on so you will have to move it each time you use it. For outdoor rough cutting I use my circular saw. Cheap Makita is a model that's been around a while. No frills, should last a long time. Clamp the wood and use it two handed and keep aware of where the power cable is while cutting and you will have no probs. the cutting thickness is much less than drop saw but you can always roll the timber over and cut through from the back (60mm cut depth I believe). Drop saw is better if you can manhandle it.