Thread: In need of a clamping solution

Make some diamond-shaped blocks, 50mm to a side and 135° on the large angle. You could then use G- or C-clamps to hold it all together, but I reckon band-clamps around each block would be a better choice.

Use of tape (or similar) to prevent gluing to blocks and packers to prevent damage to corners is recommended.

Grab a piece of MDF or similar longer and wider than your stiles, then attach a cleat along one side put the stiles on it then attach another cleat so it holds the stiles in alignment, now simply glue them up and clamp them down along the middle.

Like this,

Glue a couple of 18mm ply strips for 36mm and cut out in the shape below. They will do the trick

Can't claim the following tip as mine (picked it up from some yank mag), but it's dead simple and really easy.

Just lay the stiles down flat and parallel to each other, with the sharp edges of the bevels touching. Run some tape (something strong) down the joint with the joint in the middle of the tape. Do a few layers if you think it needs it. Make sure you get the bevels touching perfectly after taping.

Flip the taped stiles over, and apply glue to the mating faces. Close the stiles together, like a hinge, and hold the joint closed using whatever takes your fancy :

- a bunch of tape pieces from one stile to the other
- Clamps (I use quick clamps, their rubbery contact pads bite in to the edges just fine and don't slip)
- Rubber tube or occy strap wound in a spiral round the assembly and clamped off at either end.

Sounds dodgy I know, but it really works. Try it on a bit of scrap and see how it goes.


Cheers,


Justin.

All those ideas will work,

or use hide glue & just rub the joint till it grabs - no clamps at all

Strewth, thanks heaps, lots of good options there.
I'll try them on a few scraps first and see which method suits my skill level and application and will post back.
Thanks for the fast help.

Ok, I've tried it on my scrap pieces first, thought to try the easiest method first to see how I go, and that was with the tape, and have to say that on my scrap test it worked a charm, put the tape on, applied some glue and clamped for a while, drilled some pilot holes and countersunk some screws to give it some guts, seems to work a charm.

Piccies attached show the end result.


Real test will be with the real pieces.

Depending on how much woodwork you are doing, and which side of the job will be seen, you may find a 'Pocket hole screw' jig very handy - do a search on 'Kreg' and you'll find a heap of links, there are cheaper & probably inferior knock-offs around. It does actually work as a substitute for clamps if there is a side that won't be seen, or for stuff to use in the shed.

The tape system, the tip comes from the Taunton Press's books BTW - is also great for keeping the glue from squeezing out on the 'pointy' side of the joint, so clean up is a lot easier before painting.

Thanks for the help everyone, lots of good methods there, i'll be remembering them in future.
I have had the pocket hole screw jig on my shopping list for a while, just havent obtained one yet.

I went straight from my scrap piece to my good pieces with confidence, and am happy with the result i had.

First pic is the 4 steps used.
Second pic is the end result of the door frame, dry fitted.

Thanks for the help.

Looks like a good result mrstevo. Do you really need any reinforcement? It should be quite strong with that glue-up.

I'm new to woodwork, give me a lathe, mill, oxy and welder etc and i'm more than comfortable, but with timber there's too much room for human error to cause problems, so thought i'd better add some screws for security, theyre in a kitchen so will cop a bit of handling, and they wont be seen as they are inside the door, and i will putty over them for appearance as well.

Only thing i could have done better would be to have obtained a router bit to clean the cut up a bit, however i cut them with a triton saw screwed to a bit of mdf, set angle at 22 1/2 degrees and cut thru the mdf, suspended it upside down on some horses, clamped a fence and set the blade height to just cut thru the timber, gave them a quick sand and glued them up. A bit of a rogue technique but suprisingly they came out well.

Hi

I went straight from my scrap piece to my good pieces with confidence, and am happy with the result i had.

First pic is the 4 steps used. Second pic is the end result of the door frame, dry fitted.

I guess I am a bit too late, I was going to suggest you set your saw to 12.25º so you need not swap the pieces end for end and keep the grain a closer match - oh well maybe next time

They turned out very well.