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Thread: Clamps
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27th July 2012, 11:35 PM #16Hammer Head
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made a few of these this week ours 1600 long, made from 60x40 alumnium RHS, no welding at all.
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27th July 2012 11:35 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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28th July 2012, 09:59 AM #17
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28th July 2012, 10:01 AM #18
EGGcellent effort they look fantastic.
Cheers
Steve
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28th July 2012, 10:38 PM #19
Thanks for sharing! They look great and I'll be having a go myself
Cheers,
Shannon.
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28th July 2012, 11:21 PM #20
I like it a lot. A couple of pairs are definitely in my future, made from stainless cause I can get it a a good price and have easy access to a TIG
Forgive my dumbness though. What causes the scissor action to work.
Is there a small block on the end of the all thread that pushes against the job which in turn pushes against the block on the other end of the clamp?
Any chance of a link to the plans or a scan of the article from Australian Woodworker Sept/Oct 08.
Signed
Dummy of the week
EDIT: Told you I was dummy of the week. I didn't look at the second page of the thread my question is a clear as dogs youknowwhats on the second pageIf you find you have dug yourself a hole, the first thing to do is stop digging.
I just finished child-proofing our house - but they still get inside.
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28th July 2012, 11:54 PM #21Hammer Head
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22nd August 2012, 09:39 PM #22Beginner
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I just purchased the steel stock today to make these, problem is my stock (from the offcut bin) is 2mm thick mild steel, whats the best way to drill the bolt holes in these?
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22nd August 2012, 09:52 PM #23Senior Member
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For accuracy and ease, a drill press is the tool for the job. Alternatively, the modern cordless drill is pretty beefy these days and if you are carefull, patient and centre punch before drilling a pilot hole, it is possible. Good luck!
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22nd August 2012, 10:31 PM #24Beginner
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was any cutting fluid required on the drill press?
I have a puny 1/3 hp one that i'm not sure if its up to the task, i was considering sprining for a 1hp unit soon and don't know if i should bring that foreward.
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30th August 2012, 04:02 PM #25Senior Member
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Challenge accepted
Will try to get 4 done over the weekend as I need to laminate some timber so fingers crossed it will work..
Might post pictures if the end result is not too embarassing...
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30th August 2012, 05:41 PM #26Junior Senior Member
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Where the tightening screw screws down onto the wood, is there anything on the end of the screw to stop it slipping when it's tightened? Mine spin sideways when tightened.
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30th August 2012, 08:44 PM #27Senior Member
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Look great Egg,these are the results of my efforts using some scrap around the place.........AL
If your not confused you dont know whats going on!
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30th August 2012, 11:39 PM #28Senior Member
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I made up an end cap that could swivel, like on a G clamp, but I used a bit of square bar rather than round.
Turned a spigot on the end of the screw, drilled a stepped hole in the end piece, the smaller diameter to suit the spigot, and peened over the spigot inside the larger diameter, just enough to stop it falling off. Made the diameter of the spigot small, about 3 mm, so there is a good bearing area for swivelling.Cheers, Glen
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31st August 2012, 12:07 AM #29Junior Senior Member
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31st August 2012, 12:26 AM #30
Good job Egg, only just seen this thread.
Don't you find them a bit slow to adjust though? Wouldn't a plain pin with a cotter on the end be easier?1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.
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