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Thread: Clamps

  1. #16
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    made a few of these this week ours 1600 long, made from 60x40 alumnium RHS, no welding at all.

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  3. #17
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    crowie is offline Life's Good, Enjoy each new day & try to encourage
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza View Post
    made a few of these this week ours 1600 long, made from 60x40 alumnium RHS, no welding at all.
    Wow Gaza, That's a lot of clamps which you've made there......Cheers, Crowie

  4. #18
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    EGGcellent effort they look fantastic.


    Cheers

    Steve

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    Thanks for sharing! They look great and I'll be having a go myself
    Cheers,
    Shannon.

  6. #20
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    I like it a lot. A couple of pairs are definitely in my future, made from stainless cause I can get it a a good price and have easy access to a TIG

    Forgive my dumbness though. What causes the scissor action to work.

    Is there a small block on the end of the all thread that pushes against the job which in turn pushes against the block on the other end of the clamp?

    Any chance of a link to the plans or a scan of the article from Australian Woodworker Sept/Oct 08.

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    EDIT: Told you I was dummy of the week. I didn't look at the second page of the thread my question is a clear as dogs youknowwhats on the second page
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  7. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozhunter View Post
    Any chance of a link to the plans or a scan of the article from Australian Woodworker Sept/Oct 08
    were these in the mag, wonder how they were made

  8. #22
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    I just purchased the steel stock today to make these, problem is my stock (from the offcut bin) is 2mm thick mild steel, whats the best way to drill the bolt holes in these?

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    For accuracy and ease, a drill press is the tool for the job. Alternatively, the modern cordless drill is pretty beefy these days and if you are carefull, patient and centre punch before drilling a pilot hole, it is possible. Good luck!

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    was any cutting fluid required on the drill press?

    I have a puny 1/3 hp one that i'm not sure if its up to the task, i was considering sprining for a 1hp unit soon and don't know if i should bring that foreward.

  11. #25
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    Challenge accepted

    Will try to get 4 done over the weekend as I need to laminate some timber so fingers crossed it will work..
    Might post pictures if the end result is not too embarassing...

  12. #26
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    Where the tightening screw screws down onto the wood, is there anything on the end of the screw to stop it slipping when it's tightened? Mine spin sideways when tightened.

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    Look great Egg,these are the results of my efforts using some scrap around the place.........AL
    If your not confused you dont know whats going on!

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnredl View Post
    Where the tightening screw screws down onto the wood, is there anything on the end of the screw to stop it slipping when it's tightened? Mine spin sideways when tightened.
    I made up an end cap that could swivel, like on a G clamp, but I used a bit of square bar rather than round.

    Turned a spigot on the end of the screw, drilled a stepped hole in the end piece, the smaller diameter to suit the spigot, and peened over the spigot inside the larger diameter, just enough to stop it falling off. Made the diameter of the spigot small, about 3 mm, so there is a good bearing area for swivelling.
    Cheers, Glen

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glennet View Post
    I made up an end cap that could swivel, like on a G clamp, but I used a bit of square bar rather than round.

    Turned a spigot on the end of the screw, drilled a stepped hole in the end piece, the smaller diameter to suit the spigot, and peened over the spigot inside the larger diameter, just enough to stop it falling off. Made the diameter of the spigot small, about 3 mm, so there is a good bearing area for swivelling.
    I understand what u mean, but I'm sorry I don't follow ur method. Can u post some pics please?

  16. #30
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Good job Egg, only just seen this thread.
    Don't you find them a bit slow to adjust though? Wouldn't a plain pin with a cotter on the end be easier?
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