Thread: What do you clean up epoxy squeeze out with ?

I use cheap white vinegar, it seems to help with the clean up of damp epoxy.
You should read Michael Storer's pages on using epoxy for boat building - lots of good tips here e.g. using a snaplock pastic bag for mixing the stuff in and then cutting a small corner cut off to apply the glue.

The boatbuilding guys are way ahead on using epoxy!

Acetone - you'll get it at the paint shop.

Cheap white vinegar here too...............works a treat

Regards Lou

lacquer thinners

Jake,

I'm a squeeze-out expert, because I can get the biggest, runniest, messiest joints on the planet.

First things first: Epoxy is just another glue.

If you wait until it has commenced curing, you will get quite a bit of working time when it has a soft rubbery consistency (not sticky to touch). Depending on the hardener you are using, this could be after half an hour or after three or four, you'll have to be a bit patient and observe!

Once it gets to that stage it's a very easy job to remove it by scraping with a sharp chisel or scraper. I prefer to do that rather than using a solvent, as the solvent just helps spread the mess and penetrates the timber.

If I need a tidy joint, even with PVA, I take the time to mask the joint before glueing. If you do that accurately, you'll more than save the time spent in clean-up later, unless you are an expert glue-up person and don't get any squeeze-out!

Again, the best time to clean up is when the epoxy has gone rubbery, actually about the same consistency of a freshly-dried (not cured) bead of PVA come to think of it.

Cheers,

P

Also Lacquer thinners

I agree with bitingmidge. There comes a point during the curing process where it will cut and peel off real easy unless you are using a rather porous wood which may make it just a bit harder (masking will help there). Depending on exactly which exopy you are using it may cut out well enough when cured or it may take a grinder to remove the fully cured epoxy.

ron

As Midge says.
During the dry fit-up, smear wax (cheap floor wax is fine) everywhere you are likely to get squeeze-out. This prevents the excess glue sticking. When it is rubbery, just lift with a sharp blade and pull it away.
You can still get it off if it's gone hard, but watch out for sharp chips of epoxy coming towards your eyes.
You can clean the remains of the wax off with turps or white spirits and a toothbrush.

Thanks.

The squeeze out will come up out of these really small glazing bars (5mm bars) at the joints....uno, one of those hard to reach areas.....and to retain the sharp look of it, I don't really want to risk deforming the profile, by digging around in there with a chisel uno.

Don't mind the process when using PVA, cause I can just get a thin wet wrag and a tooth pick and just run it right along the joint at the moulding to take away as much glue as possible all at once......one or two passes and it looks good. Just forget it and move on.

But I guess epoxy won't wipe away with a solvent as nicely as PVA does with water .....(?)... Hoping I wouldn't have to wax it, and wait for it to go all rubbery....but if thats what I have to do.

At that scale, instead of a chisel, I'd use a scalpel (available from your local chemist) or exacto knife (from a hobby shop in the bigsmoke) with a scalpel blade.

Cheers,

P

Ta midge. BY the way. I DID get that window done uno.

You have to be careful with vinegar because it literally destroys epoxy (Acetone is a thinner,yes if you thin it enough it it will remove it). It's probably the best product for cleaning up epoxy - especially on skin. But because vinegar can penetrate so deeply into timber it has to be used sparingly when cleaning up a joint.

Originally Posted by Toolin Around

You have to be careful with vinegar because it literally destroys epoxy (Acetone is a thinner,yes if you thin it enough it it will remove it). It's probably the best product for cleaning up epoxy - especially on skin. But because vinegar can penetrate so deeply into timber it has to be used sparingly when cleaning up a joint.

Ta mate. So, have you used Acetone on timber joints ? ..... didn't just smudge it all over ? ...

I thought also that Acetone was more corrosive to the skin. Full on chemical isn't it. I've used some once....found it evaporated off very quickly...... Probably shouldn't have been messing with it without a bit of instruction to tell the truth.

Not sure if I should or shouldn't use a solvent. Have to do some experiments.

midge !.....I said, I finished that window..... jesus this place can be rude. Say something,,,then just walk off why don't you..

Originally Posted by apricotripper

midge !.....I said, I finished that window..... jesus this place can be rude. Say something,,,then just walk off why don't you..

hehe, I was just looking for this thread to interject!!

I did smile when I saw the note, but I don't know if it's finished if I haven't seen the pics now do I?

Which design did you go with?

Oh, BTW... don't listen to toolin' or anyone else that says use acetone on your skin.. it breaks down the fatty layer (or something with dermis in it) and let's the epoxy bad stuff just shoot straight in! If you've ever met anyone who is sensitised to epoxy, you'd treat it VERRRRy carefully. No need to be afraid of it, just treat it appropriately!

Cheers,

P