Thread: cleaning and protecting large machines

My solution with cast iron surfaces is to scrub down with white spirit and a green scourer to remove the grime and resins. Wipe clean with a fresh white spirit soaked rag till clean. I protect the surfaces with a bit of wax mixed with white spirit to a paste. Wipe on with a clean scourer and then buff the hell out of it pushing the wax into the pores of the cast. Work on a small area at a time. For example, one side of a jointer at a time, then the other side, then the fence. I usually do this last thing in the day, when I do it. The next morning buff the hell out of it again and get to work. Works for me. I've never had a problem with finishes not sticking etc. I get my wax from blocks of cheese of all places. A little goes a long way, a little dab will do ya!!!!!

Cheers
Bevan

I spray my table saw with WD40, then clean with a green heavy duty scouring pad under an orbital sander to get rid of the rust etc, then wipe on U beaut wax, then buff it by hand. the surface looks really good, and is very smooth, almost slippery.

Unfortuantely, large, thin, surface rust patches occur a week or two later, usually under the right hand side where the fence normally sits, or wherever I might have dropped a bead of sweat, and the whole thing has to be done again.

Can anyone please advise of a more permanent solution?

HI,
I use WD40 and some 1000 grit wet & dry sandpaper. I find this gets rid of the rust well. ( I got this tip from a Forum member, Auld Bassoon).
Use extra WD40 and a rag to clean it up and then I apply the silver glide. I find this will last a LONG time. I use it on my Band saw, Jointer and lathe bed.

Whatever method you use to remove rust or protect the top surfaces (I've tried most.....) it really helps to cover the machine with a dust sheet when not in use.

I use old cotton sheets or doona covers for my jointer and tablesaw - it really helps to keep the rust at bay.

Originally Posted by JillB

Unfortuantely, large, thin, surface rust patches occur a week or two later, usually under the right hand side where the fence normally sits, or wherever I might have dropped a bead of sweat, and the whole thing has to be done again.

Can anyone please advise of a more permanent solution?

Waxes generally only offer a short term protection on steel or cast surfaces.

You're best off investing a few dollars in some Silverglide, as it generally lasts a few months.

Elbow grease, Silverglide and an old sheet or blanket.

Another tip I was given to help prevent rust was to leave a pile of wood shavings on the floor. Theory is that the shavings will absorb moisture from the air which will keep the shed drier and therefore less rust will form!