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  1. #1
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    Default clearing drill bit flutes

    hi everyone,

    i'm doing a bit of odds and ends with some blackbutt but this often happens when i'm pre-prilling hardwood

    the flutes bind up with shavings, which rubs and gets very hot. I'm sure there is something i can do about it, but what?

    WD40 spray before each hole?
    rub on a candle?
    pray to any of the gods that will listen?

    most of my time ends up with me trying to pick a crusted up wood fibres out of a 2mm drill bit after every hole.

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  3. #2
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    Pull the bit out more regularly to allow the shavings to fall out of the flutes, generally speaking, bound flutes is due to shavings compressing in the flutes from not clearing regularly whilst drilling.
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  4. #3
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    I do find it harder to "peck" with a cordless drill though.

    I dont seem to notice it as much on brad point bits but normal twist drill

  5. #4
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    Also, keep your drill bits sharp. Sharp bits cut the chips finer and they flow up the flutes better. Dirty or corroded flutes do clog more easily.

    Never thought of "wax and polish" inside the flutes but it might make a lot of sense. A friend is fastidious in cleaning and polishing all inside surfaces on his chisel morticer - works for him, and the same principle.

  6. #5
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    As long as you don't plan to glue anything in the holes, a candle rubbed on the flutes seems to keep the heat down, which seems to reduce the flutes clogging.
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  7. #6
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    +1 to what has been said

    - Using a sharp and one from a reputable company makes a word of difference. I personally like Sutton bits
    - Take your time depending on the size and depth taking it slow and clearing the chips halfway helps
    - I've got a rag that i use to wipe the top of my table saw, its soaked in all kinds of lubricants over the years silverglide, wd40, camilla oil etc. I use this to also lubricate/protect any metal surfaces including lubricating drill bits.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by havabeer69 View Post
    I dont seem to notice it as much on brad point bits but normal twist drill
    Some drill bit designs are better suited to particular woods, and the way the wood "bulks" as it is cut. Compare the geometry of the flute design, spiral twist angle, depth of flute etc. plus the brad point cutting tips make a cleaner cut so the chips are "cleaner."
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  9. #8
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    I’ve found when this happens with Oz hardwoods if you pull the drill out and start again on a piece of scrap the clogged stuff usually gets pushed out immediately.
    You can then go back to your original hole, might have to do it more than once if it’s a deep hole.
    Give it a try.
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  10. #9
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    Have had this issue with issue hardwood too particularly when drilling pilot / countersunk holes in decking

    Often I would have a scrap of pine with me and drilling a hole into it would clear the flutes
    Drill bit brands didn’t seem to matter whether P&N or German made Wurth bits

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beardy View Post
    Have had this issue with issue hardwood too particularly when drilling pilot / countersunk holes in decking

    Often I would have a scrap of pine with me and drilling a hole into it would clear the flutes
    Drill bit brands didn’t seem to matter whether P&N or German made Wurth bits
    I've found the higher the moisture content in the wood, the worse the issue is. Decking probably is at the higher end of acceptable MC.
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  12. #11
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    Bump and grind.
    As Clear out has said, bump tip of bit on a bit of scrap timber to clear the flutes. When this no longer works the bit needs sharpening.

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