Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 27 of 27
-
25th December 2009, 07:11 PM #16Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2008
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 72
Diy cramp with acme thread on the cheap
I decided to have a serious go at this and wanted to improve it in a few ways. First was to have an acme thread - hmmm. Acme thread costs about $90 for a 12 ft length and around $10 to $15 for a nut plus a bunch of welding which would be daunting to the average woodworker. You can buy a two stage acme tap for $250 or two separate taps (roughing and finishing) from ebay probably over $100 by the time you get it. I am way too cheap for that.
Solution - jailbreak a car (toyota) scissor action jack and you get half the thread components you need. My brother got me four identical jacks for $30 from a wrecker and it is like they were thinking of this exact secondary use when they made them.
Next post will be how to improve the length adjustment - I'm not a big fan of bits that detach and have to be reassembled just to accommodate wider boards
-
25th December 2009 07:11 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
26th December 2009, 01:25 PM #17GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Queensland
- Posts
- 2,947
I like your thinking - look forward to your progress.
Regards,
Bob
-
29th December 2009, 10:08 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,696
Taken from the compressX site......
The CompressX® clamp consists of two long aluminum or steel bars, between which the panel to be glued is placed. A patented scissor action links the ends, and a thread mechanism on one end is used to compress the job.
patented implying he may get upset at others copying his idea. I have just had an idea ripped off so I would understand if he got upset at someone doing just this. He has every legal right to take action but that does not mean he would. Sorry but that is the way it is. There again he may be using the term out of context but the design is registered at the very least.CHRIS
-
29th December 2009, 11:41 PM #19GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2006
- Location
- Port Huon
- Posts
- 2,685
Unless you intend to produce a product utilising the patent, it's unlikely that any action would be taken against someone making a similar item for themselves.
The same goes for any registered design.Geoff
The view from home
-
30th December 2009, 07:50 PM #20Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2008
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 72
Appreciate the caution. If anyone wanted to do a straight copy then do a patent search - the full plans are made available by the patent. (ironic)
The protection that a patent offers does not cover improvements and I shall endeavour to suggest improvements only and will never show a full solution which might infringe. Having said that I have also attached the previously discussed pre existing solutions but cast no stones at the current "patent"
The pictured kit does look remarkably like the majority of the description in the patent with the exception of the pin running through the bar rather than in a rack.
Plano also has a patent - I can't tell how the action differs but I'm told it's all in the wording
The plano does offer a very elegant solution which is quite unsuitable for DIY as the pinning mechanism is complex (better protection than a patent) and it has its own extrusion. It is also over my budget.
Solutions to come
-
30th December 2009, 08:10 PM #21.
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Location
- Victoria
- Posts
- 5,215
Not bad considering he has ripped off the idea from numerous others.
I have used his clamps and they are very ordinary.
If you are willing to pay the big bucks, then look no further than the “Frontline” version. They are so superior to the amateurish compressX it’s not funny
-
30th December 2009, 08:17 PM #22
I have the Plano system myself. What makes it a clear winner for me is the fact that it all happens vertically rather than on the bench. I find I can do a glue up, prep more material, then do another glue up. Doesn't take up much room when not in use and allows for work to progress when in use. Accurate as well. Tis the best system hands down. My 2c worth.
-
30th December 2009, 08:20 PM #23
I have also looked at the frontline clamps and reckon they are the ducks guts. Bit of a shame they don't do them as a wall mounted arrangement. If they did I would spend the extra bucks.
Cheers
-
30th December 2009, 08:26 PM #24.
- Join Date
- Jul 2005
- Location
- Victoria
- Posts
- 5,215
-
30th December 2009, 08:56 PM #25GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jun 2005
- Location
- Helensburgh
- Posts
- 7,696
-
23rd January 2010, 08:19 PM #26Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2008
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 72
Improved thread boss
Winding cramps in and out by hand is sooo boring. I tackled this by adding an allen head bolt to the end of the handle boss - insert cordless drill and speed wind (if worried about unwind add loctite or pin it) - Works a treat
Also still trying to be cheap - the jail broken acme nut was the most beautiful machining bit of steel I have ever worked, I have used free machining bright mild steel before but this was just amazing. Drill dia 8.5mm then M10 tap.
Next cheap thrill was gained from breaking open dead laser printers and scanners for the diameter 6 or 8 stainless rod inside. (this little beauty is bright polished and ready to run a metric die straight over the ends, it is the part the print head travels up and down on and sometimes the paper feed roller - in the case of the feed roller it has a rough coating which scrapes off pretty easily and voila! start scavenging your local council clean ups.
Details:My Boss dia was 18 and length is 60. Used 2 M6 grub screws 6 long, drill dia 5, 7mm deep with acme thread in situ and tapped. Acme is sloppy in a 12.7 hole won't really start in a 12.5 hole - I drilled 15 deep at 12.7 then to 30 with 12.5 and banged it in. Speed wind end was drilled @ 5 dia 11mm deep tapped M6 for allen head bolt 10 long. Good news, you can do it all with just a drill press - you will get a better result on end drilling with a metal lathe but I'm trying to keep this workable for most woodworkers (yes you will need a basic metric tap set - preferably with start and finish taps to get to the bottom of the blind holes)
-
7th February 2010, 05:04 PM #27Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2008
- Location
- Sydney
- Posts
- 72
Rail option
I call this an option as I'm not sure if it is an improvement till I test it a bit more. The extrusion is from a slot construction system - kind of a grown up Meccano. This one is by a company called Maytec - www.maytec.com.au . I was completely unaware of it till recently. The main hole is 12mm and will take an M14 tap without any work, the small ones take an M6. It is pretty impressive stuff and I've been mucking around with it to figure out what other uses I can put it to. It locks together with something very similar to a woodwork knock down fitting (a bit like a threaded cross dowel).There is a pretty extensive catalogue available as a pdf. They will cut to size and do the required drilling which is handy as their system requires a 15.2mm dia drill which is a bit of an oddity.
The main profile I have tried is the 40mm by 40mm heavy profile.
Picture one shows two rails the small end piece on the right is fixed and provides a fulcrum. The left hand end slides and locks with two (keeps it tracking straight) allen screws at any length, there is a way of substituting the allen screw for a small machine handle with screw which then means it is tool less to change but they are pricey. The third allen screw holds the second fulcrum to the carriage. This set up means you can have any length of bar and only need a hole at one end.
I've included exploded pics to show how it goes together
If you need heavier duty you can use all the same bits on an extrusion double the height - also pictured (you would then need longer arms)
I have tried cutting away a quarter of one fulcrum block on one rail which allows the pivot to slip out, this means when horizontal you can open the whole thing up for layup on a bench or by switching it to the fixed end you can do vertical layup just like the plano. Cost of extrusion is a bit over $30 p/m.
Using the same extrusion, I am working on two totally tool free ways of locking a carriage at fixed points. That will be the next post if I can find time to make them. (the hole on the left of the bar is not doing anything)Last edited by champs; 7th February 2010 at 05:07 PM. Reason: left footnote out
Similar Threads
-
saw in action
By mackay Cabi in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONSReplies: 0Last Post: 14th September 2008, 12:19 AM -
scissor jack table
By Tonyz in forum HOMEMADE TOOLS AND JIGS ETC.Replies: 6Last Post: 29th April 2007, 10:53 PM -
Hipped roof-Scissor Bracing
By brightspark in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 1Last Post: 19th October 2006, 11:12 PM -
Out of Action
By ubeaut in forum ANNOUNCEMENTSReplies: 0Last Post: 20th March 2001, 07:28 PM