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27th December 2009, 11:59 PM #1Novice
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how to use a concealed hinge drill bit?
Hello again
I bought this drill bit yesterday from the local hardware shop. I haven't opened it yet because I may want to return it in case I find it's easier to use the "normal" hinges.
Anyway my question is: Does the bit suddenly stops when a certain depth is reached? (e.g. at 13mm, it just stops).
My laminate panel is around 16mm thick and I'm concern I drill right through it.
Any tips for a beginner whose drill is a handheld-type? I searched the net but I cannot find what I need.
Thank you very much for the help
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28th December 2009, 04:58 AM #2Skwair2rownd
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Is it a Forstner style bit??
If so I suggest you use it in a bench or pedestal drill only, and then you can set the depth stop on the drill.
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28th December 2009, 01:16 PM #3Novice
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I think it's a forstner bit. thanks for the suggestion. I'll ask around for so I can use someone else's drill press
thnk you
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28th December 2009, 03:28 PM #4
I have used a hinge cutting bit in a electric hand drill with tape wrapped at the right depth
But practise on some scrap timber till you are sure of the correct depth. I also used a square as a guide to make sure I was not drilling on a angle
Regards Michaelenjoy life we are only here a short time not a long time
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28th December 2009, 04:21 PM #5
If it's a Forstner bit, they can "scoot" around a bit too.
There are some gory pics on here of people who used them hand held. (wild dingo was one)
The other thing is that the "tit" in the centre is about 3mm deeper than the cut hole, so you might have a bit of a problem.
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28th December 2009, 06:39 PM #6
I use these bits all the time in cordless and corded handheld drills. Always drill a 1/8 pilot hole, hold the drill firmly and go slow until the hole has started.
If you can access a drill press easily, then go that option, it's much easier.
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28th December 2009, 07:16 PM #7
With care (as described above), I reckon a forstner is quite safe to use hand held.
Use a cordless drill preferably as a corded will often spin too fast if you're not careful.
Watch the outer surface of your panels as the bit cuts through and you will see if you are straight or not. Find the angle of the drill where you get even removal of the laminate before you cut through to the core and hold that for the rest of the cut. Easypeasy. Done plenty of doors this way.
Good luck.
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28th December 2009, 07:43 PM #8
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28th December 2009, 07:47 PM #9
if its a standard hinge like this, it only needs to be 11mm deep. Check the depth needed by measuring the hinge.
I know not with what weapons World War III will be fought, but World War IV will be fought with sticks and stones.
Albert Einstein
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28th December 2009, 07:54 PM #10Novice
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28th December 2009, 09:01 PM #11China
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jarthel, how soon do you need to drill your hinges, I have a machine that does this, the only drawback being it is awaiting a part from Germany could be a month away. You can also use a handrill mounted in a handrill press, I did yhis for years untill I aquired the correct machine
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28th December 2009, 09:44 PM #12
Good point!
From memory the cutter on my bit is about the same depth as the hinge, so I just drill until the cutter is flush with the board. This is why a cordless drill with a trigger brake is good. It drills slower and stops spinning as soon as you release the trigger.
If you chose to do it by hand. Practice, Practice, Practice on some scrap.
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29th December 2009, 01:09 AM #13Novice
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29th December 2009, 09:52 PM #14China
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It is currently set up for standard Blum hinges for the mini's most likely just need to change the cutter/s, I will find out
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8th January 2010, 02:21 PM #15Novice
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Hi China. I actually returned the mini hinges and replaced them with 100% overlay regular-sized hinges.
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