Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 5 of 5
-
4th March 2020, 10:30 PM #1
Consideration for extending a Meranti window sill?
Hi
Sorry not a pretty furniture post )
See image below. I need to extend a meranti window sill to cover a void and old sill. I've used a bit of chipboard to simulate my idea. It will be painted to look like a single big sill.
If I use timber I have a few questions.
The timber needs to be 65mm high (as there's tiles underneath) by say 12mm and 2m long. Tassie oak comes in this size, pine is cheaper but 19mm. I think the current sill is Meranti.
- Does it matter what timber I use (expansion etc)?
- I routered the existing sill as flat as possible but there is some noticeable highs and lows; what would an ideal glue be for such a situation? Could I just use construction adhesive?
- there is a 3-5mm gap between new timber cover strip and concrete sill (,the block above the blue wall. Would it be ok to add a bead of silicone of some soft to provide rigidity?
Many thanks
-
4th March 2020 10:30 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
5th March 2020, 10:34 AM #2
Using a silicon bead to fill the air gap is a good idea, for a number of reasons.
Personally, I wouldn't glue the cladding on; I'd just brad it every 250mm or so and possibly punch in the heads to use suitably coloured wood-filler.
It looks like there'll be foot traffic through there? If there is, I'd recommend rounding over the top front edge of the cladding to make a small bull-nose, preventing it from rounding over with wear. (Actually it still will, but will be much less obvious than if you had a crisp arris.)
One approach to hiding the variation between the sill & the top of the cladding is to step the cladding down a mm or 5 to create a shadow line. Of course, instead you could simply mount flush and sand them both flat at the same time.
At 2m long, I wouldn't be overly concerned about movement unless the ends are butted up against vertical frames, in which case you may see a small gap come & go.
Me, I'd simply use a length of KDHW (for the afore-mentioned wear issue) or source another length of meranti or red cedar if I was really concerned about potential movement.
(There is another timber which closely resembles meranti that seems to have come on the market of recent years, with very similar properties. We bought a pack for trials in the joinery, but it didn't meet our requirements. Sadly the name of the timber eludes me... but it's readily available here in Bathurst for architectural trim; architraves, beads & coves, etc. Heh. A 2m length of 65mm architrave would probably be perfect for your job.)
- Andy Mc
-
5th March 2020, 12:03 PM #3
Can you post another photo with a more general overall view please,
The person who never made a mistake never made anything
Cheers
Ray
-
5th March 2020, 02:51 PM #4
Thanks for the informative reply.
It's actually just above a benchtop in kitchen so shouldn't get a beating. From benchtops to top of wood sill is 170mm for reference. I'll post another picture.
I'm glad timber choice isn't an issue. My plan was to raid Bunnings for something 65mm X <19mm in DAR (ideally 12mm due to tapware clearance). I wasn't sure if plane old pine would suffice.
I don't own a brad nailer but will nail by hand. What gauge would you suggest and how much penetration would be required?
-
5th March 2020, 02:53 PM #5
Similar Threads
-
Window Sill Cover
By MrPotatohead in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 4Last Post: 1st November 2011, 11:11 AM