Thread: Where is the corner apex, please ?

Reference from the two edges to find the true corner apex. The cheap and nasty way is by using one of these
https://www.timbecon.com.au/centre-finder

Originally Posted by Kuffy

Reference from the two edges to find the true corner apex. The cheap and nasty way is by using one of these
https://www.timbecon.com.au/centre-finder

After sitting down to write this,
I was thinking,(Not my best ability some days lol)

Why don’t I use my centre finder [emoji3064][emoji3064]

Still I wonder what we did before centre finders.

Cheers Matt.
Ps don’t tell Sally

You made one, then used it

I like to find my near enough Center by running my slicing gauge over each edge and have it set just off Center . I end up with a little square in the middle and I center mark that by eye with an awl . If I get a little rectangle it shows my original square piece is out and I just center mark what’s in the middle .
Then if it’s really important, the next problem is the pilot hole and how do you know that stayed dead on ?
A dummy plate is the right name I think . A bit of steel or brass plate with the pilot hole drilled through it , clamp it down dead over the center mark and drill the pilot hole .
And now how does the final hole stay on track ?
Tricky! I have some spade bits I made with a polished spur leader . If that spur matches the pilot hole good . I’ve only got two sizes though . So maybe before the pilot hole goes in, do it like an engineer and mark a circle with a compass off the center mark and make sure the start of the final drilling is staying true to that ?

Originally Posted by auscab

I like to find my near enough Center by running my slicing gauge over each edge and have it set just off Center . I end up with a little square in the middle and I center mark that by eye with an awl . If I get a little rectangle it shows my original square piece is out and I just center mark what’s in the middle .
Then if it’s really important, the next problem is the pilot hole and how do you know that stayed dead on ?
A dummy plate is the right name I think . A bit of steel or brass plate with the pilot hole drilled through it , clamp it down dead over the center mark and drill the pilot hole .
And now how does the final hole stay on track ?
Tricky! I have some spade bits I made with a polished spur leader . If that spur matches the pilot hole good . I’ve only got two sizes though . So maybe before the pilot hole goes in, do it like an engineer and mark a circle with a compass off the center mark and make sure the start of the final drilling is staying true to that ?

Now we’re talking, I will inform Sally tomorrow that I have it all worked out[emoji6].
Thank you Auscab

I want to help, but not sure if my intelligence extends that far.
But after a few glasses of wine.
I think the penny dropped.
My solution would only involve a ruler and a marking knife/pencil, assuming you have a ruler where the edges are parallel.
Also one of these will work perfectly, replacing the need for either a ruler or a pencil: iGaging 35-780 AccuMarking 3 in 1 Tool Digital Wheel Marking Gauge with Depth Gauge and Height Gauge: Amazon.com.au: Industrial & Scientific.
Line up the ruler against one side of the tile. Place this tile against a vertical surface and put the ruler against that vertical surface if you have to.
Draw a line down the other edge of the ruler. Now you have a straight line parallel to that side.
Rotate the tile by 90 degrees and repeat that process.
Continue to replicate that process until you have four lines with four vertices.
Now you can draw your diagonals with precision joining two vertices at a time. (OK, you can't do away without a ruler here.)
The cross of the diagonal will be your centre, I hope.
I'd accept all praises next Monday at Boxhill but might refuse any blame.

Originally Posted by justonething

I want to help, but not sure if my intelligence extends that far.
But after a few glasses of wine.
I think the penny dropped.
My solution would only involve a ruler and a marking knife/pencil, assuming you have a ruler where the edges are parallel.
Also one of these will work perfectly, replacing the need for either a ruler or a pencil: iGaging 35-780 AccuMarking 3 in 1 Tool Digital Wheel Marking Gauge with Depth Gauge and Height Gauge: Amazon.com.au: Industrial & Scientific.
Line up the ruler against one side of the tile. Place this tile against a vertical surface and put the ruler against that vertical surface if you have to.
Draw a line down the other edge of the ruler. Now you have a straight line parallel to that side.
Rotate the tile by 90 degrees and repeat that process.
Continue to replicate that process until you have four lines with four vertices.
Now you can draw your diagonals with precision joining two vertices at a time. (OK, you can't do away without a ruler here.)
The cross of the diagonal will be your centre, I hope.
I'd accept all praises next Monday at Boxhill but might refuse any blame.

Ok after reading that two times,
I get it, it’s good you can have praise before Monday [emoji6].

Cheers Matt

I’d have drawn the whole thing on a piece of scrap, glued down two bits of wood to make one corner and clamped it to my drill press. No more marking the individual bits, just hold them in the jig and drill

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

I’d have drawn the whole thing on a piece of scrap, glued down two bits of wood to make one corner and clamped it to my drill press. No more marking the individual bits, just hold them in the jig and drill

How does that work your only references is one corner an one diagonal,

Or am I missing something?

Cheers Matt

If it was metal, I would drill the hole first, then insert a pin the same size as the hole, then use the vise on the milling machine in conjunction with parallels and an engineers square to accurately mill the four sides at right angles to each other equidistant from the hole. There would be some issues in doing that with timber but it could be done.

Originally Posted by doug3030

If it was metal, I would drill the hole first, then insert a pin the same size as the hole, then use the vise on the milling machine in conjunction with parallels and an engineers square to accurately mill the four sides at right angles to each other equidistant from the hole. There would be some issues in doing that with timber but it could be done.

An how is that helping , Sir.

O your going to bring your mill up too our place an show Sally how too to it, right.
She will need a set of parallels too[emoji6].

Or should I just get someone at NASA to machine them up on one of there 17 axis CNC machine thingy [emoji3064].

Cheers Matt.

I think you have more of a chance in getting NASA to do it than you have of me relocating the mill to Ballarat

Mark out the offending item full size on a piece of scrap
370DDEBA-03CE-4F0D-8135-10CC7ADEAE1E.jpeg

Glue down two bits of scrap to form a corner
3729FBA0-2AA2-45AC-8592-974366DDDE39.jpeg

Clamp the whole thing down on your drill press with the drill centred and you are ready to insert your blank. You can hold the blank a bit more securely using a doe’s foot as shown.

0CFDDF68-CBF9-4FD6-BC0A-7E1A35509EEC.jpeg

Originally Posted by Chief Tiff

Mark out the offending item full size on a piece of scrap
370DDEBA-03CE-4F0D-8135-10CC7ADEAE1E.jpeg

Glue down two bits of scrap to form a corner
3729FBA0-2AA2-45AC-8592-974366DDDE39.jpeg

Clamp the whole thing down on your drill press with the drill centred and you are ready to insert your blank. You can hold the blank a bit more securely using a doe’s foot as shown.

0CFDDF68-CBF9-4FD6-BC0A-7E1A35509EEC.jpeg

Thanks Chief.

For going to trouble of the diagram,
Centring the drill bit first, now it makes sense [emoji106][emoji106].

Cheers Matt.