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Thread: Countersinking in Steel Plate
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28th April 2020, 11:58 PM #1Senior Member
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Countersinking in Steel Plate
I want to make a dowel plate. My dowelling jig is for imperial measured dowels and you can only buy metric dowels these days.
The plate will go between two thick timber blocks. But I need to screw the plate to the blocks. Countersunk screws would be neat way to go.
What kind of countersink bit should I use?
More, if a member has any comments to make about such a project, I'd appreciate hearing from you.
Regards,
KevinB
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28th April 2020 11:58 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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29th April 2020, 01:42 AM #2China
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Some thing such as these
Metal Countersinks | Total Tools
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29th April 2020, 10:46 AM #3
Go for the cross hole bits as they give the smoothest surface whether it be metal or wood.
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29th April 2020, 10:57 AM #4.
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I bought a cross hole set from McJing
Chamfering Cutter / Countersink Set
I've had my set for 10 years and used it a fair bit and they are still good.
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29th April 2020, 12:39 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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No need to buy anything unless you need an excuse. Select a drill bit slightly larger than the screw head, re-sharpen to the countersink angle if necessary and drill the c/s hole first followed by the clearance hole.
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3rd May 2020, 08:31 PM #6Senior Member
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Thanks China - I can see now what I'll do.
Regards,
Kevin.
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Thanks Treecycle,
That's what I'm going to do now.
Regards,
KevinB
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Thanks Bobi - that's what I'll do.
Regards,
KevinB
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Thanks, Picko. Great.
Regards,
KevinB
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3rd May 2020, 09:53 PM #7.
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You can still accurately drill the CS hole after you have drilled the clearance hole if you have a DP that allows you to set the drill hole depth. You might need a practice run and make sure the workpiece is held firmly or the CS drill may pull the workpiece upwards. Centring the CS bit over the hole can be done by aligning the chuck to the clearance hole using the clearance bit.
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4th May 2020, 02:26 PM #8
Why Screw it to Blocks ?
Why bother screwing your dowel plate to wooden blocks?
The latest incarnation of my dowel plate is a length of 6 mm mild steel plate drilled with 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 10, 11 and 12 mm holes. My technique is as follows:
To make a 6 mm dowel (for example):
- saw or split a batten to slightly over 6 mm, say 6.2 - 6.5 mm,
- sharpen one end on pencil sharpener (literally),
- Noting diagonal width of 6.5 square is 9.2, hammer dowel batten sequentially through 9, 8, 7, and 6 mm holes.
- Job done!
- Periodically, sharpen dowel plate by lightly peining around mouth of each hole.
- It is far easier and quicker to drive square dowel through larger holes than to chamfer corners of batten.
I just position dowel plate hole over a dog hole or over slightly open vice. A pencil sharpener works better than a chisel or knife for sharpening dowel battens. A disk or belt sander works equally well, but now I do prefer the noise level of the pencil sharpener!
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6th May 2020, 03:56 AM #9New Member
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