Thread: Countersinking in Steel Plate

Some thing such as these
Metal Countersinks | Total Tools

Go for the cross hole bits as they give the smoothest surface whether it be metal or wood.

I bought a cross hole set from McJing
Chamfering Cutter / Countersink Set

I've had my set for 10 years and used it a fair bit and they are still good.

No need to buy anything unless you need an excuse. Select a drill bit slightly larger than the screw head, re-sharpen to the countersink angle if necessary and drill the c/s hole first followed by the clearance hole.

Thanks China - I can see now what I'll do.
Regards,
Kevin.

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Thanks Treecycle,
That's what I'm going to do now.
Regards,
KevinB

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Thanks Bobi - that's what I'll do.
Regards,
KevinB

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Thanks, Picko. Great.
Regards,
KevinB

Originally Posted by Picko

No need to buy anything unless you need an excuse. Select a drill bit slightly larger than the screw head, re-sharpen to the countersink angle if necessary and drill the c/s hole first followed by the clearance hole.

You can still accurately drill the CS hole after you have drilled the clearance hole if you have a DP that allows you to set the drill hole depth. You might need a practice run and make sure the workpiece is held firmly or the CS drill may pull the workpiece upwards. Centring the CS bit over the hole can be done by aligning the chuck to the clearance hole using the clearance bit.

Originally Posted by KevinB

I want to make a dowel plate. .....

The plate will go between two thick timber blocks. But I need to screw the plate to the blocks. Countersunk screws would be neat way to go.
.....

Why bother screwing your dowel plate to wooden blocks?

The latest incarnation of my dowel plate is a length of 6 mm mild steel plate drilled with 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 10, 11 and 12 mm holes. My technique is as follows:

To make a 6 mm dowel (for example):

• saw or split a batten to slightly over 6 mm, say 6.2 - 6.5 mm,
• sharpen one end on pencil sharpener (literally),
• Noting diagonal width of 6.5 square is 9.2, hammer dowel batten sequentially through 9, 8, 7, and 6 mm holes.
• Job done!
• Periodically, sharpen dowel plate by lightly peining around mouth of each hole.
• It is far easier and quicker to drive square dowel through larger holes than to chamfer corners of batten.

I just position dowel plate hole over a dog hole or over slightly open vice. A pencil sharpener works better than a chisel or knife for sharpening dowel battens. A disk or belt sander works equally well, but now I do prefer the noise level of the pencil sharpener!

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Why bother screwing your dowel plate to wooden blocks?

The latest incarnation of my dowel plate is a length of 6 mm mild steel plate drilled with 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 10, 11 and 12 mm holes. My technique is as follows:

To make a 6 mm dowel (for example):

• saw or split a batten to slightly over 6 mm, say 6.2 - 6.5 mm,
• sharpen one end on pencil sharpener (literally),
• Noting diagonal width of 6.5 square is 9.2, hammer dowel batten sequentially through 9, 8, 7, and 6 mm holes.
• Job done!
• Periodically, sharpen dowel plate by lightly peining around mouth of each hole.
• It is far easier and quicker to drive square dowel through larger holes than to chamfer corners of batten.

I just position dowel plate hole over a dog hole or over slightly open vice. A pencil sharpener works better than a chisel or knife for sharpening dowel battens. A disk or belt sander works equally well, but now I do prefer the noise level of the pencil sharpener!

One of those "should have thought of that myself..." moments.