Thread: Cross Cut Sleds - Who's made one?

Thanks everyone for the advice. This is all super helpful. I'm gonna give it another go using a lot of these tips and tricks and see how I go. Thanks again for weighing in!

Originally Posted by Blackforester

Another way is to make the runners just a bit smaller than the slots and wedge them in towards the blade side, then place the top sheet on top and glue/in place. This way the runner touch only 2 sides of the slots instead of 4. As long as the runners are machined straight it will work. This way the runner will not have to fit the slots exactly. Once the top is in place the wedges are removed. I hope this make sense.
BF

That is a very interesting method...may give that a go.

Anyone made a crosscut sled out of MDF? I have a DeWalt DWE7480 table saw and trying to keep the finish somewhat in tact. I think it's painted and aluminum underneath and nit sure how to maintain the finish.

Would like to use MDF with hardwood runners but would appreciate some input.

Thanks,

Jim

jpaskell - this would be a good separate thread. I use 18mm plywood, and wax the table and the sled well. Preserves the finish. Not keen on MDF for this application, especially in humid or moist environment. Realistically, you are never going to keep a tablesaw top scratch free if you do lots of work on it. The tablesaw is usually the workhorse of the shed, has lots of heavy duty use

Originally Posted by jpaskell

Anyone made a crosscut sled out of MDF? I have a DeWalt DWE7480 table saw and trying to keep the finish somewhat in tact. I think it's painted and aluminum underneath and nit sure how to maintain the finish.

Would like to use MDF with hardwood runners but would appreciate some input.

Thanks,

Jim

Hi Jim,

Don’t overthink it. They cost practically nothing to make. Just think how many sleds you could create from a single $30 sheet of 1200x2400 @17 mm MDF.

With respect to the hardwood runners, I now make sure that I rip them such that the growth rings run vertically. It helps with seasonal changes ensuring that expansion and contraction don’t effect the fit in the miter slot.

Oh and wax. Wax makes the world go round

Edit, because I forgot to say that all my sleds are MDF with hardwood runners. It is a time tested combination.

Made a couple BUT never seemed to just right
Ended up getting a Rockler mitre sled now everything great,go on youtube and see Dave Stanton's review and set up tips,ie the five cut square up method of setting zero gets it very accurate

where do you guys get your chopping board plastic from for runners? I see carbatec sells them - is it the right size for saw stop? Also, do they expand when you screw into them (one of the issues I had with timber).

I also see that you can get aluminium ones with nylon screws on the side to snug them up when needed - any had experiences with them?

I also see that you can get aluminium ones with nylon screws on the side to snug them up when needed - any had experiences with them?

I got mine from Carbatec, and use them on all my jigs - best thing ever, no risk of movement in the slot, doesn't sieze, doesn't expand when you fit the screws to the jig base, and slides nicely, esp if you wax the table and the underside of the sled

Thanks for the notes Dengue and Xfigio. I realize I'm probably asking a question that has dozens of answers.
I just wanted to make sure that MDF was a good choice. As far as the table top, when it wears out, I repaint it.
I do use a lot of wax on the the top to keep it as smooth as possible.
Thanks again for the input.
Jim

I have to build a jig that sits in the slot of my TS and it is replacing one with timber runners which have swelled and jammed in the recent wet weather we had. I bought some 20mm HDPE rod and will have it turned down on a lathe slightly under size, the rod will go into a drilled hole in the jig and will be fixed with a screw. Because it is undersized I will first drill a hole down the centre of rod which sits in the slot then slit it, a countersunk screw can the be screwed in and the rod expanded to fit the slot exactly. That's plan A, it nearly sounds good enough to work.

For all the jigs that I made I use both runners. It's a lot more stable than just using one.

I use HMR whiteboard for my sleds with a nice chunk of hardwood front and back. As for runners, i buy small sheets of 12mm nylon and rip them myself and depending on the depth of the table grooves the sled sits up of the table by a mm or two. The runners are glued with Titebond with the board and runner contact faces receiving a rough sand, no need for screws. It's all very simple and after a few goes i have them spot on accurate.