Thread: crosscut sled and other jigs for my tablesaw

Nice work Jow

Is that a hinge rebate I notice 3rd & 4th photo good use of old wood

Originally Posted by wheelinround

Nice work Jow

Is that a hinge rebate I notice 3rd & 4th photo good use of old wood

Yes its an old laboratry cupboard door that came out of a skip, in fact all timber you see is reclaimed (the ali taper jig came with the saw).

(only one laboratry door left.)

That's a really great and solid looking sled Jow. Recyclers of the world unite!!

Nice work Jow.

I might have to have another look at the type of guard you have over the actual sled. I have not put one on before as I like the unobstructed access to the sled and my view of the blade has no restrictions - how do you find yours in use?

The guard which I felt was necessary is the exit guard which you have on yours also.

Tried to load just one pix but couldn't - #12 in this thread

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=68703

Regards,
Bob

Hi, Bob, the wooden guard strips along the top of my sled are not giving me any sight problems, in fact I might even add an additional drop down that slides down to the base.
(To prevent any samll bits being thrown out of the sled. )

However I must congratulate you on the neatness of your model.

Regards the link you mention, No. 12 posted pictures load OK for me up here.

BTW.
I have seen this warning re using a sled.


quote
A Warning!

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Crosscut sleds are generally safer than typical miter gauges because of the backstop and base support they give to the workpiece. However, most sleds prevent the use of the typical blade guards, which is probably why many professional shops employ overhead guards. Suffice it to say, be extra careful when using a crosscut fixture without a blade guard. The best bet: Use an overhead blade guard or a fixed blade guard on the crosscut fixture.

Don't let the workpiece rotate even a fraction of a inch when pulling a crosscut fixture back after a crosscut. If the work piece catches the blade on the way back, you will see first hand the absolute worst type of kick-back. But, it happened to me! I know. The middle finger of my left hand is 5/8" shorter due to such a kickback. Only the grace of God saved me from losing my head--literally, as the shelf I was crosscutting flew past me like a Frisbee. To prevent this, the width of the Dubby miter bar is intended to be approximately .003" less than the width of your miter slot. When you make a cut, you push the Dubby forward and towards the blade. On the return, you pull it backward and away from the blade.


Don't let the workpiece drop on top of the running blade. Sounds like common sense doesn't it? But when you're tired or being assisted by someone else, it is easy to let a workpiece slip and fall on the blade.

Nice sled Jow. I have found mine very usefull. By inserting a steel pin (cut off nail) in the base you can even cut a circle on it . I have done a few turning blanks on mine.
You mentioned that it is built to cut 25mm stock but from the pic you can raise the blade and get at least 50mm. You will have to change the guard whare the blade exits if you do. I get 60mm from mine.

Regards
John

Thanks John.

I deliberately made it with a low fence to keep weight and storage problems to a minimum.

If I cut heavier pieces I would most probably use my chop saw.

Two links on sleds.

http://thewoodshop.20m.com/howto_crosscut.htm

http://www.geotekds.com/sled/index.htm

Thanks for those ideas, and the warning about blade guards. I am trying to think my way through a design where the leading cross piece bridges over my existing blade guard and splitter. Of course this means that the back cross piece has to be not much higher than the wood I am cutting otherwise it would bump or be set too high for the best protection. I'm thinking the leading cross piece could be a piece of angle iron that joins the left and right hand sides and is high enough to pass over the blade guard. Anyone got any ideas to help?