Thread: Cube bookcase - fixing supports

How about using Connector Bolts and Sockets made by Howard Silvers in various colours available from Bunnings.

I'd be a little concerned about not having a back. A thin plywood back will give it considerable structural strength.

If you are going to paint it, then routing a rabbit, glue and a few nails will make it plenty strong. Or you could listen to the very sexy voiced Mr. White.

I would go further than Grunt and say that a back is absolutely essential to give the cabinet strength. Without one, a gentle push on the side would be enough to make it collapse. The back need not be heavy; 4 mm ply would be fine.

I would suggest using 12 mm ply instead of MDF, since it does not produce such clouds of dust when routed, like MDF does, and it takes screws better. I would rout 5 mm deep rebates for the sides 12 mm wide in the ends of the top and bottom, and rout two grooves 5 mm deep and 12 mm wide in the top and bottom for vertical sheets identical in dimensions to the sides. Screw and glue battens as shelf supports to the inner faces of the sides and to both faces of the two inner vertical sheets. Glue and nail the top and bottom to the sides, ensuring the assembly is square by measuring its diagonals to check that they are equal; if not, adjust until they are equal. When the glue has cured, put glue into the grooves and slide in the two vertical sheets.when the glue has cured, apply two coats of varnish, and then nail on the back. Cut the shelves to length, varnish them and rest them on the shelf-support battens, and Bob is your uncle.

Admittedly, the edges of the ply will look a bit tacky, unless you paint it, or edge it with solid wood edging strips, but I don't suppose you are aiming to produce a family heirloom.

Rocker

I would be very dubious of using 9 mm MDF as it doesn't have the strength. I would use 9mm ply.

There is another way to get structural rigidity without putting on a back.

In our work place we have by default used Ikea products, one, they are reasonably priced, two, they have some excellent designs to save production costs as well as being neat.

One of the things that they use quite regularly is an X of light metal construction. These X things are joined in the middle by single rivet type arrangement which allows the X to be spread or elongated to fit the many different sized bookshelves they sell. The X stabilisers are attached to their bookshelves by four screws, one in each corner.

The X stabilising bracket is sold as a spare part and is quite cheap. I would suggest it's worth thinking about if you wish to maintain an open look for your cubed bookshelf.

The strength these add is quite considerable, we have a vacuum chamber which is almost impossible for one person to pick up, a vacuum pump which I know weighs close to 45Kg and another machine as well as about 12kg of ink on another shelf.

All of this on a three shelf system that is 1100x900x500mm H,W,D and as solid as a rock.

Mick.

Handymum,

I have been having second thoughts. I think your book-case three cubes wide by six high is too large and tricky a project for your first attempt at furniture construction. If you want to make it yourself, I would suggest you break it into smaller modules, say two cubes by two.

However, as Optimark suggests, you might be wiser to go for buying a modular system from Ikea, or just a flat-pack bookshelf unit from Bunnings. You would probably find this as economical as buying materials and building it yourself, and you would be certain of success.

Rocker

I agree with Rocker's first suggetion but I reckon you should have a go.

Everyone,

Thanks for your considered replies!!!

It would be very tempting to go to Ikea and pick up their $400 cube bookcase, which is the inspiration for my project. But (a) it won't fit into the space I have available and (b) I have now told everyone I'm making it and it would be difficult to palm off an Ikea model as my own! I want it on record though that a bloke recommended that I go shopping at Ikea. Has got to be a first.

I agree that it is an ambitious project, one that I wouldn't even consider attempting without a good friend who has a triton thingamajig and the know-how to probably do most of the work while making me feel that I'm contributing in vital ways. And I'm realistic about the result that I'll achieve - not an heirloom piece.

Safety is an important consideration for me, so I'll put a back on it (of 4mm ply as suggested): I hadn't realised that the back provided strength. I'll also look at using 9mm ply instead of MDF (does this paint up as well?) I'll also bracket it to the wall as an anti-topple strategy.

So thankyou Grunt, Rocker, , Optimark and the very sexy-voiced Mr White. I'll post a picture when it's done - probably late January. And if it's got an Ikea sticker you'll know that I failed miserably and have gone back to baking cookies.

Cheers,

Handymum

Handymum,

I still think you should use 12mm ply. Good luck

Rocker

Handymum, obviously my post has been misread.

I only suggested that you go to Ikea to purchase their stabilising bracket, which only costs $5.00 and is called a cross brace.

You will see this brace used on page 235 of Ikea's 2005 catalogue, applicable to Vic, NSW & Qld.

Sorry if you thought I was telling you to just go out and purchase a finished product, I wouldn't dream of telling anyone that.

I'm happily married to A woman who sometimes puts me to shame when manufacturing things!

Mick.

Handymum, I have thought a bit about putting the verticals in and if you increase the thickness of your material, then using dowels would be a strong and relatively simple way of accurately locating them.

As dowel comes in sizes from 6mm upwards that would indicate that your verticals should be something like 16mm, leaving you with 5mm either side for strength using 6mm dowel.

Putting a small groove in the horizontal shelves with a router is also excellent, but once again you have to factor in the material left after a groove is taken out top and bottom.

This is the fun stage of building something, then as you go along and make a mistake (I nearly always do) you alter it just slightly, sometimes for the better!

Mick.

Optimark - sorry 'bout that! Just my husband is always giving me grief about my trips to Melbourne which ostensibly are to visit a friend, but in reality are pilgrimages to Ikea (there is no store in Adelaide). When next at Ikea (in about 3 weeks time funnily enough) I will buy some cross braces - you never know when they will come in handy.

Off to explore more of your bulletin board now - I never would have guessed that you guys had such a community going. All the best, and thanks for your advice. )