How can I cut a 7/2" by 3/4" board to 1/4" thickness with a table saw?

[IHaveChickens]

I am not very experienced. I keep getting a taper with the thickest part being the starting edge of the cut, and the thinnest being the ending edge. I need it to be accurate because I'm trying to build a pattern to cast something that needs to be accurate.
1. Table Saw, just one I was given
2. What I'm doing for visual reference
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[Scally]

It is a bit tricky slicing a wide board accurately.

The first thing I would suggest is to use 2 Featherboards.
I put one behind the blade and another in front of the blade. This keeps your board against the fence for the full cut.

Magswitch featherboards are good but you can make your own using a piece of 6x1.
Make it as tall as your fence to help keep your board at 90 degrees to the table.

I can get a good cut , but not perfect.
The sawn boards are finished in the thicknesser.
Take your time and let the saw determine the speed of cut.
Cheers

[BobL]

It is a bit tricky slicing a wide board accurately.

Agree

The first thing I would suggest is to use 2 Featherboards.
I put one behind the blade and another in front of the blade. This keeps your board against the fence for the full cut.

I'm not sure about using one behind hind the blade as it could push the cut stock up against the side of the blade. I reckon this end has to be left floating.
Definitely using a feather board in front will help.

The sawn boards are finished in the thicknesser.
Take your time and let the saw determine the speed of cut.

Good points.

[Fuzzie]

Are you sure the fence is dead on parallel to the blade? Also is there a splitter fitted to the saw and is it centered on the blade?

[IHaveChickens]

Are you sure the fence is dead on parallel to the blade? Also is there a splitter fitted to the saw and is it centered on the blade?

I am using a riving knife now. I think the fence is very slightly off.

[IHaveChickens]

I know the fence isn't perfectly parallel. It's off, but very little. The riving knife is also off very slightly. I can bend that, though.

[KahoyKutter]

This is how I would do it.

1) Fix the fence parallel issue. Shim if necessary.
2) Make sure blade is plumb to the table. Check plumbness of fence as well. Fix if necessary
3) Create zero clearance throat plate by stopping a cut midway through a long piece of 12mm MDF or thicker at least spanning the length of the fence.
4) I'm not sure about the dimensions of your workpiece due to the American nomenclature, but if it's tall and thin, use double sided sticky to attach it to a thick piece of MDF to prevent it from tipping over. You could even sandwich it between 2 MDF pieces.
5) Run it through the table saw using featherboards to keep it pressed against the fence. (Make sure your fence doesn't flex under pressure).
6) Flip the board over and using the same reference face against the fence run it through the saw. Hopefully your piece isn't more than twice the cutting capacity of the saw minus the MDF ZC plate. If it is, then you're gonna have to use a handsaw (I assume you don't have access to a bandsaw).
7) clean up the cut face with a handplane.


Good luck and stay safe (use push sticks etc).

[IHaveChickens]

I just got a better table saw off of Craigslist. Thanks, though.