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  3. #2
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    Horizontal borer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    Also - thoughts on threaded rods+epoxy as floating tenons?
    Are they floating tenons? or are they a hybrid joint version of floating tenons with a cross dowel nut & connector joint; or a threaded insert & bolt; or say a bolt and barrel nut? The timber may well be floating tenons fixed on one end only with the "bolt" making the joint fast.

    It may well be a means to make the items "flat pack" for shipping etc.
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    He has said in comments before that they are glued in with epoxy

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    Quote Originally Posted by rustynail View Post
    Horizontal borer.
    This. Or you could make/print a jig and just use a drill if you have a steady hand

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    As per rustynail. Horizontal borer would be accurate and the way this was done. Drill the holes before you shape the leg.

    Or a dowelling machine like the Triton doweller with one bit removed to start the hole, then finish it with a cordless. Fiddly and rough/bodgy, but a last resort.

    A

  8. #7
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    Nathan Day Design.jpg

    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu
    ... How would you cut these mortices? ...
    Why would you want to mix threaded rod and dowels?

    Sam Maloof had a more sophisticated version of that joint on his tables and a far more sophisticated version on his chairs - he used large wood screws, and then plugged the holes.

    ... Also - thoughts on threaded rods+epoxy as floating tenons? ...
    The Gougeon Brothers, who created WEST System epoxies, did very extensive testing of this about 50 years ago - its in their book and probably on their website. Remember, epoxy is stronger than wood. Their findings were:

    One. Put a screw into timber and apply enough force, and the screw will pull out

    Two. Drill a small hole in timber, and epoxy a screw into it; apply enough force, and the screw will still pull out.

    Three. Drill a hole double the diameter of the screw, fill with epoxy and insert the screw. Then apply enough force and the screw will probably break before it pulls out of the timber.

    The magic number is that the hole should be at least double the diameter of the screw. They also discussed effects of depths of holes and types of timber.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Nathan Day Design.jpg



    Why would you want to mix threaded rod and dowels?
    can only assume its for alignment and disassembly purposes. assuming he's selling furniture its probable a different way of being able to break it down for postage but allowing the customer to have a high precision alignment at the end.

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    He's using a domino by the looks of his previous posts . They are home made, probably Jarrah ones he may have made. We're just looking down on them and not seeing the elongated view in that shot. In other posts, Domino brand tenons can be seen.
    He either Dominos the rails before gluing up the top frame or the Domino is jigged to do the table top once assembled.

    What Id like to know is how he tightens the bolt when it comes to glue up time. The only thing I can think of is . The torsion box top would have two skins . One on top and one underneath . He says he Vacuum presses the skins on in two goes in other posts. He must tighten the bolt for leg glue up with just the top skin of veneer on and then adds the second bottom skin on last . Which means the vacuum press cant be used because you cant bag the under side of a table top with four legs sticking up. Or Maybe you can by cutting legs out and sealing around each corner ? Pretty tedious . I have a bag and pump set up that uses a yellow putty to seal the sheets which is how some fiber glass boat builders use vacuum bags .


    Nathan seems pretty generous with answers to questions about his build techniques in his posts.

    Asking him seems like it would be a good idea .

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    Both explanations seem credible, Haveabeer and Auscab.

    But it still leaves the basic questions:
    • If you are using Dominos, why do you need the bolt, and
    • If you are using the bolt, why do you need Dominos?

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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Both explanations seem credible, Haveabeer and Auscab.

    But it still leaves the basic questions:
    • If you are using Dominos, why do you need the bolt, and
    • If you are using the bolt, why do you need Dominos?
    It seems like a great way to clamp the legs in position on glue up . Probably the best way . Clamping them from the outside looks hard . And steel in tension like that adds strength to it .
    F897FEBA-1149-4C49-A4B1-D9E4430DB724.jpeg

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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Both explanations seem credible, Haveabeer and Auscab.

    But it still leaves the basic questions:
    • If you are using Dominos, why do you need the bolt, and
    • If you are using the bolt, why do you need Dominos?
    Its also instgram, sometimes the journey is more important (for likes and views) then the end result. Im pretty theres heaps of people that make and film resin table builds with no intention of selling or using its purely just for content.

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    I dont think he is using the threaded inserts for clamping/tightening - there are other posts of legs with multiple threaded inserts. Im pretty sure he is using them for strength

    The timber is floating tennons. I dont understand how would cut mortices. They are vertical and the table side they are in a concavity, the large domino has 70mm depth so you would have to plunge quite a bit before you even hit timber. A jig would also use up valuable thickness.

    When it comes to horizontal borer - can they cut vertically too? Can they cut 2x mortises at the same time? Alignment would be pretty difficult if having to cut individually I think.... It would also require you to bring the table top to the machine and line it up pretty accurately

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    I saw in a comment on another post he uses something called the 'multi router' for another type of torsion box table. I cant see how it can work with this table where the mortises on the table top sit within a concavity. Can you get spiral upcut bits that are super long?

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    Oh man the Multi Router is an awesome bit of kit if you can afford it. Carbitool used to make extra long spirals, my old work has some 3/8" up-cut with a 2" flute (I think 4" total); don't know if they're still a stock item, but I'm sure they'd make to order.

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