Thread: How would you cut these mortices?

Originally Posted by qwertyu

So if we want 40mm depth each side we would need about 75mm plunge depth on the table side. This gives up 25mm for the base of the tool and to hold into the chuck? I suppose an extension could be used. Thoughts on this? You think 40mm depth would be enough for a large table?

Doable, but I'd like to see at least 2 dowels per joint. If you're just plunging it might be better with a drill bit? That much router bit hanging out just makes me nervous and you could go deeper with a drill. You'd also need some roller stands to support the work because the machine table is only little.

So what even is a multi router? I googled it and it came up with the woodpeckers multi router which looks like the pantorouter? Who invented it first? I cant find anywhere to buy the woodpeckers multi router. Or, is the multirouter a generic term for a machine?

It was originally made by JDS Tools, who no longer exist, Woodpeckers must have bought the patent because theirs is completely identical, just with the addition of a dust hood. It goes back to the 80s, the pantorouter patents are only from 2015.

edit: looks like carbitool still makes that bit

That's the 1/2", not 3/8". Probably safer that way, either way you get the reach.

So I sent Nathan a question yesterday.
His reply . Yes its Jarrah floating tenons . They make a jig and use the DXL (Domino XL ).
And like some of you said above I think? The threaded rod is for gluing into an enlarged hole . Not tightening the joint as I thought. Totally new idea to me !
He said he has moved away from doing it like that now and does smaller dominos with many smaller threaded rods.
His inspiration for doing it this way was "Makepeace"
I don't want to push my luck with more questions but I did ask two more. If it was John Makepeace ? And also how he clamps the legs on .
He's a generous guy with his info .

Rob

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

... (The Multi Router) ... was originally made by JDS Tools, who no longer exist, Woodpeckers must have bought the patent because theirs is completely identical ...

Good detective work, Elan. Woodpecker bought MultiRouter two years ago.
Woodpeckers acquires the Multi-Router - Woodshop News

Originally Posted by auscab

... The threaded rod is for gluing into an enlarged hole . Not tightening the joint as I thought. Totally new idea to me ! ...

That is a fairly standard boat building technique, Rob. It was popularised, if not invented, by the Gougeon Brothers 50 years ago.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

That is a fairly standard boat building technique, Rob. It was popularised, if not invented, by the Gougeon Brothers 50 years ago.

Is it sort of like the Dyna bolt of boat building Greame ? Used when you want to bolt something to a wooden boat structure?

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Oh man the Multi Router is an awesome bit of kit if you can afford it. Carbitool used to make extra long spirals, my old work has some 3/8" up-cut with a 2" flute (I think 4" total); don't know if they're still a stock item, but I'm sure they'd make to order.

Did your old workplace have a Multi Router Elan ? I Remember your boss Andrew showing me something that looked like that he had just bought new many years ago.

Originally Posted by auscab

Is it sort of like the Dyna bolt of boat building Greame ? Used when you want to bolt something to a wooden boat structure?

Precisely, Rob. It also spreads loads better than using a lag screw or coach screw.

I have also used the technique to bolt stuff to a concrete floor.

Originally Posted by auscab

Did your old workplace have a Multi Router Elan ? I Remember your boss Andrew showing me something that looked like that he had just bought new many years ago.

Yep

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Precisely, Rob. It also spreads loads better than using a lag screw or coach screw.

I have also used the technique to bolt stuff to a concrete floor.

It's a technique that has also crossed over into fixings as a concrete epoxy anchor into concrete floors, ceilings etc.

Regardless, with all the fixings on one plane and so little control over racking, I don’t reckon that table would stay tight for very long.

I messaged Nathan too but he didnt reply - though I did it via a comment. Your right he does explain a lot on instagram.

Threaded rod into oversize hole - how much bigger should the hole be? Suggestions on an epoxy? I have heard Techniglue is the best but is very pricey. Thoughts on what type of threaded rod? Theres many different types of steel

Threaded Rod - Bunnings Australia

This place even has high tensile but is it necessary?
Threaded Rod | Allfasteners Australia

Oh just saw in a post above that the hole should be about double the size of the screw. Is even a point of having the screw then? This is a stupid question, but couldnt you just have an 'epoxy' dowel?

In a joint like this, where the holes are horizontal, if the hole is that much bigger than the screw, how do you stop the screw from dropping? you end up with majority of the epoxy above the screw with very little under the screw and some of it will be contacting the timber

Originally Posted by qwertyu

... Threaded rod into oversize hole - how much bigger should the hole be? Suggestions on an epoxy? I have heard Techniglue is the best but is very pricey. Thoughts on what type of threaded rod? Theres many different types of steel. ...

These issues are discussed in depth in Gourgeon Brothers book - probably still in your local library. Issues include:

• Diameter of hole - double diameter of threaded rod, from memory,
• Depth of hole - excessive depth has no advantage,
• Types of metal in thread - Monel, bronze, mild steel, high tensile steel, stainless, etc,

I usually use WEST System epoxies or a local fibre glass shops generic copy for everything. In my opinion, there is not a lot of difference between major epoxy brands, but all have their quirks. You are better off choosing one and building experience with its ideosyncrasies.

One clever trick is to drill 5mm deep the same diameter as the bolt at the bottom of the hole; this centralises and stabilises the bolt while the epoxy is poured and sets.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

These issues are discussed in depth in Gourgeon Brothers book - probably still in your local library. Issues include:

It's available as a PDF on the West Systems website.

https://www.westsystem.com/wp-conten...k-061205-1.pdf