Thread: How to cut narrow slot in timber?

So 2.3mm is 3/32". It can be done with a thin saw blade in youe saw bench or with a router bit in a router.

Yep a thin kerf blade and the fence set on your ts will do the trick


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The thinnest standard plough plane blade is 1/8", so you would need to grind one down if you wanted to do it with a hand tool. Not hard to do, I have seen a lot of modified cutters.

Lots of suggestions. I had a look through a couple of online catalogues to see if anyone actually makes a 3/32 thin-kerf t/s blade, but couldn't find one. You could use one of the ultra thin-kerf blades, & make a couple of overlapping passes to get your width? In any case, most table saw blades doo't leave a flat-bottomed kerf, so you would still have to clean up with a chisel or scraper. If you can find a router bit the right size, that's probably the easiest way to go, but take it carefully, a little at a time - small diameter bits like that are flimsy & break very easily (damhik!).

Grinding a plough blade would be the long road home, imo. Depending on the wood you are using, and your ploughing skills, you may not get a very neat or clean slot due to wood breakout & a bit of wobble. I couldn't manage it with my old plough, in any case, because the skate is thicker than 3/32". A scratch-stock might be more practical, & shouldn't have too much trouble reaching the depth you want.

If the slot has to be very precise & neat, my first choice would be to use a 1mm slitting-saw blade (which I happen to have) & a simple jig on the drill press, which I also happen to have, made up for other jobs. It takes some fiddling & testing to adjust the saw height on the extra passes to widen the slot, but I've cut precise slots in square stocks, for e.g., using this technique. The teeth on slitting saws are flat-topped, so you'd get the required flat bottom.

Good luck - let us know what method you end up with, & how it went...

Cheers,

Carbitool do 1.2 and 1.6 mm slot cutters for a router that run off a bearing, which pretty much guarantees it'll be parallel. The stock bearing will give you a 10mm deep cut but you can get larger bearings to adjust that.

I'd do it with a slot cutter in the spindle moulder, CMT list a 2.2 and a 2.4mm if it had to be 2.3 use the 2.2 and do 2 passes, second pass adjust height by .1




Pete

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Carbitool do 1.2 and 1.6 mm slot cutters for a router that run off a bearing, which pretty much guarantees it'll be parallel. The stock bearing will give you a 10mm deep cut but you can get larger bearings to adjust that.

No need to buy a special bearing, it's a straight run, so just use the router with a fence to get the right depth. That small stick is going to be a challenge to hold clear of the bench while you run a router over it, though - better to use a router table, if you have one, or knock up a temporary r/t.....

Cheers,

2.3mm.... such precision, such fine woodwork.

I have a router slot cutter and I think it is around 2mm. I am sure you can find one.

We've given all these suggestions but there in no indication of the tools/equipment the poster has. Makes it difficult to assist.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, they have been most worthwhile. I have decided to go for a slot cutter as recommended - I had no idea that they were available in such small widths. The smallest one I have is from Carbitool with a 4mm cutting width.

Yes, my router table will handle this nicely

If it is only a 1-off small job then I would consider using the corner of a cabinet scraper to cut the wood slowly. You will need to make a jig for it. Just an idea.

Originally Posted by Dengue

Thanks everyone for your suggestions, they have been most worthwhile. I have decided to go for a slot cutter as recommended - I had no idea that they were available in such small widths. The smallest one I have is from Carbitool with a 4mm cutting width.

Yes, my router table will handle this nicely

Good Morning Dengue

Carbitool catalog lists heaps of slot cutters from 1/16 inch [1.6 mm] upwards, increasing the cutting width in multiples of 1/64 inches [0.4 mm]. I think its always worth paying for tungsten:
http://envirocatalogue.com.au/Carbit...outer_Bit/#/8/
http://envirocatalogue.com.au/Carbit...uter_Bit/#/34/



Fair Winds

Graeme

I would be making a 2.3 wide blade for a scratch stock , Time 7 minutes, cost 3 cents
and if I didnt have a scratch stock to suit , Id make that too, Time 15 minutes , cost $1. 24

And I would have done the one off little groove in the piece of wood in the time it takes to make a cup of tea in between the dogs on my tail vice . I think ill leave the cost of that out .
And when the customer comes in to pick up the job and asks how did I do it , I would be telling them a story about making the tool for the job the way they did it back in the 18th century , and how the old way takes time . and that they had better take a seat because I'm about tho give them the bill

Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

I would be making a 2.3 wide blade for a scratch stock , Time 7 minutes, cost 3 cents
and if I didnt have a scratch stock to suit , Id make that too, Time 15 minutes , cost $1. 24
Rob

Make your own scratch stock....it provides blade control, precise depth and a accuracy as well as a good finish. You can make one in your shop in minutes and make the blade from an old bandsaw blade or similar.

Al