Thread: How to cut plywood

Score along the cutting line with a sharp craft knife on both sides of the proposed cut. Tape may just lift the wood fibres as you remove it.

Dear Jill,

It might be worth having a try at removing the splitter on the 10HB, then dropping the blade down to just enough to get up through the bottom outermost ply, and then running the sheet through by pushing it along with a sacrificial piece of something or other just behind the blade-line. This will "score" the lower veneer, hopefully without any tearout either along the cut-line or at the blade's exit. Then, you can raise the blade again, put the splitter back on, and run the ply through again for a proper full cut - but with the sacrificial timber again trailing it to limit exit tear-out...

Can't think of anything else that's really practical...

Good Luck,
Batpig.

slow your feed rate.

Try it in a Masonite sandwich (I have never tried this)

There is always the cut oversize and then trim with router and straight edge option.

If you haves lots of internet then look at this video
Podcast #38: Tips for Working with Plywood — Woodworking Online

Shopnotes have done lots of articles, there may be a trick that works for you.

shopnotes 42 has an article.

finewoodworking has an article
Cutting Sheet Goods Down to Size - Fine Woodworking PDF Cover Page

thanks for all the suggestion here, they are all very sound, and I appreciate the links and the references, which I have viewed and read. I had no idea there was so much to crosscutting plywood. I have tried all the above suggestions

The masing tape suggestion does work OK, but is not the best solution, I find. I have found the best way for me is to score a shallow cut on the underside with the table saw on the first pass, then do a full cut on the second pass, and do this 2nd pass a lot more slowly than I have been doing. The only hassle here is the need to remove the blade cover and splitter on the first pass, then re-install it for the 2nd pass. When you have some 20 or so crosscuts to do, this becomes a real PIA

I have also ordered a better plywood sawblade with a 40deg bevel on the ATB teeth, which really slices into the ply and reduces the tearout. ( see review of the Ultra Smooth blade here)

I am also going to double up on the 15mm thick boards ( eg place the two sides of a cabinet carcass together, one on top of the other, outside faces up, and bind then together with masking tape, esp along the crosscut lines. That way there should be no tearout at the joined edges, and the boards will be the exact same length.

You will see that this method incorporates most of the suggestions and ideas below

Hi Jill,

The only thing you didn't mention was a sharp blade, which I notice you've ordered.

Whilst too late now in your case, the other way to go is to run a slight negative rake blade on the saw - keeps its sharpness a lot longer than a super-fine bevelled blade. I've had a lot of success cutting melamine with an aluminium/steel blade in a saw. Instead of trying to rip the outer layer off, it's scraping it away.

Cheers,

eddie

Lower your blade so that it just cuts into the first layer of ply and back cut it on the TS by pulling the ply back over the blade then run the ply through the TS as normal and you shouldnt get any tear-out.

This is the method I am talking about. Go [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JuYx3ANp_Jg"]HERE[/ame]

thanks munruben, that makes me rethink my whole approach

munruben - thanks for posting that. Hadn't seen that method before, so will have to give it a try !

Cheers

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

munruben - thanks for posting that. Hadn't seen that method before, so will have to give it a try !

Cheers

Great thing is, it actually works. You might find it a bit more difficult with the larger sheets but I overcome this by not using a sled and laying the sheet directly on the TS and guiding the sheet back over the partly raised blade and up and against the fence. Much easier if you have someone to help you.

Originally Posted by munruben

Great thing is, it actually works. You might find it a bit more difficult with the larger sheets but I overcome this by not using a sled and laying the sheet directly on the TS and guiding the sheet back over the partly raised blade and up and against the fence. Much easier if you have someone to help you.

A good idea now just need a raise lower mechanism for the Triton or better still an upgrade to the Triton.

Jill, In conjunction with other possible solutions, a zero clearance insert might be a good friend here. Remember that each blade needs its own to be truly effective due to the variation in blade thickness, so it would pay to label the insert with blade details for future use.

In relation to making scoring and then slicing cuts, planning and using stops etc might allow you to make a series of scoring cuts, then elevate the blade and make the matching slicing cuts, reducing the number of cycles involved.

Just as a service to the rest of us 'punters'. could you give a clue to where the less than satisfactory ply was purchased from?

A large, nation wide store or chain such as B., M., H.

a 'specialist' supplier or a local timber yard?