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  1. #1
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    Oct 2008
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    Default cutting curves in timber

    Is there any easy way to cut curves in hardwood timber ?

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  3. #2
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    Nov 2010
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    Perth W.A
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    Default

    Hi Logman,
    Depends what you are trying to do and what what equipment you have.
    Bandsaw, jigsaw, bowsaw, fretsaw....

    Tell us more about what you need to do

  4. #3
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    Aug 2005
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    Depending on size and thickness and quantity required - router and template.
    Regards,
    Bob

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  5. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    Victoria
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    Default Cutting curves in timber

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob38S View Post
    Depending on size and thickness and quantity required - router and template.
    Thanks Bob:
    I want to make handrails from 80mm x 40mm hardwood and about 3 metres long.
    Ihave a 14 inch bandsaw with a 5/8 inch with 4 tpi.
    I also have a router but found it pretty scary trying to cut any decent depth.
    I tried my Makita demo recip unit but the blade wanders too much.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Williamstown Vic. Australia
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    77
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    Default Cutting curves

    I find cutting curves to be simple. Cutting straight now that's another matter.

  7. #6
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    I've done that size on a bandsaw that size, but you'll need someone (or sometwo) to help you to control and support that length. Just take it nice and slow.

    How much curve do you need?

    Are you trying to put a profile on the handrail? If so, you're probably best off finding someone with an industrial router - it's probably too big for a hand-held unit.
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  8. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
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    I used to cut a lot of long curves for handrails and external fretworks. Usually anything under about 3300 i did using a cnc router, but often enough i needed to do 4-5meter lengths (the cnc could do it in 2 passes, but it meant pulling apart the safety cage around the machine, which is what i ended up doing in the later years).

    when doing it by hand I would rough cut the curve +1.5mm each edge using a bandsaw and then clean up the edges on a spindle moulder using a ply template pinned to the unseen side (base of handrail in this case). a router table could be used instead of a spindle moulder. it could also be cleaned up with a handheld router and using clamps or screws to hold the template in place, the clamps will get in the way and you would need to move them as you move along the length.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    Seattle, Washington, USA
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    I would personally rough it on the bandsaw and then spokeshave it to shape and then use files (rasps when I get some...) and sandpaper to finish it. I don't use a lot of sandpaper in my shop unless I'm at the lathe, but I infallibly end up using it to finish curves. I guess if it was a subtle curve I would just set the depth of my spokeshave to "tearout nightmare" mode and have at it, then finish with a drastically lighter cut and, as mentioned, files and sandpaper.

    Definitely start on the bandsaw for anything drastic.

    Hope that helps,
    Luke

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    57

    Default Cutting curves in timber

    Quote Originally Posted by Luke Maddux View Post
    I would personally rough it on the bandsaw and then spokeshave it to shape and then use files (rasps when I get some...) and sandpaper to finish it. I don't use a lot of sandpaper in my shop unless I'm at the lathe, but I infallibly end up using it to finish curves. I guess if it was a subtle curve I would just set the depth of my spokeshave to "tearout nightmare" mode and have at it, then finish with a drastically lighter cut and, as mentioned, files and sandpaper.

    Definitely start on the bandsaw for anything drastic.

    Hope that helps,
    Luke
    Thanks for that Luke.

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