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Thread: cutting hardwood post
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20th November 2003, 10:46 PM #1Novice
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cutting hardwood post
Hi all,
I have 2 hardwood posts left over from a job that are 145 x 145 x 2300 ea. I would like to rip them into 145 x 19 for a shelving project. Easy you say, if you own a bandsaw but I don't and I want to try to cut as much as possible with a triton with 235mm saw. My depth of cut is only around 60mm so even with two opposite cuts, I am still left with just under an inch to saw through by hand. This would be alright for 1 or 2 cuts but not 12.
Any suggestions to make life easier? BTW timber is swamp gum or similar.
TIA
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20th November 2003, 11:22 PM #2
Find a mate of pay someone with a band saw or a 12" or bigger saw bench.
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21st November 2003, 09:54 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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If you said where you were from it would help.
But paying someone with a bandsaw sounds like a good idea or get some more wood or buy a bigger saw.
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21st November 2003, 10:27 PM #4Novice
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re cutting hardwood post
Glenn,
I'm in Brisbane.
I would love to get a bandsaw but I cannot justify the cost for this one project. I know I would definitely use one in the future but at the moment, I am concentrating my tool purchases to hand tools. I would really like to accomplish this with what I have got.
I'm half figuring that if I can cut 120mm with a split cut on the triton, I will first take a 25mm piece off the posts and with a combination of triton and hand rip saw and then I will rip the remainder on the triton no worries(well I'll definitely see if the Makita 9 1/4 is up to the job). Just means an extra join in the project but probably good reason to use my new HNT Gordon trying plane a bit more.
Cheers
Andrew
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23rd November 2003, 12:43 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Good luck Andrew
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23rd November 2003, 04:40 PM #6
In brisbane I can sugest two places straight off.
Wood & you at salisbury is a pay by the hour workshop facility wit all sorts of equipment. Probably the best bet.
or RM school of wood at capalaba rob takes in some "work" between classes.
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23rd November 2003, 06:07 PM #7
cutting hardwood posts
Andrew,
I don't know where in Brissy you are, but if you are near Coorparoo/Camp Hill try ringing Camp Hill saw mill on Bennetts road 3398 6288 I have found the guy there to be easy to talk to and he has offered in the past to dress some hardwood for me.
They have the machinery and you will probably get less waste, not to mention the hassle.
A word about Wood-n-you, I don;t know if they would charge by the hour for a saw to cut what you require, but when I rang to inquire about dressing some timber it was by the minute. suggest you ring first and get a price. they are at coopers plains.
Best of luck
Taffy
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23rd November 2003, 07:28 PM #8Novice
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Soundman,
haven't called them yet but found Woodnyou in the yellow pages and tried their website which came up with a white page with the word "F*@^**" and that was it!!! (see www.woodnyou.com ). Wood N You's page had been compromised by intruders when "Indaba" visited initially. Their website is now hosted on another server and they are hopefull that horrible experience will never happen again.
I will try RM school in Capalaba as I am only in Birkdale - close by.
I would definitely like to get it done if I could as it would save a lot of finish time. Got the first cut finished this afternoon after work on the first post. I tell you what, it is bloody hard stuff this gum - really made the Makita saw earn it's money. I had to put some teflon strips under the post to actually get it to slide easily enought to cut. I think if the poor triton could talk it would be protesting.
Taffy,
Thanks for the other number.
AndrewLast edited by Neil; 29th January 2004 at 11:34 AM.
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23rd November 2003, 07:29 PM #9Novice
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Sorry guys, piture was a little big - 1st time I've tried this.
Andrew
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23rd November 2003, 07:54 PM #10
Give it ago
Andrew,
I reckon you should give it ago with the ol' triton 2000.
However, I would not take the full depth of cut in one go. I would take 2 or 3 passes to save the poor old makita. Will take longer but I reckon its a goer.
I would also make sure that you either have a similar outfed table rigged up or someone "catching" that you trust. Because of the mass of the piece, a slight twist in the log's passage could jam the saw and burn the power tool easily.
Just some thoughts.
Chris"Created to Create"
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24th November 2003, 08:17 AM #11
A few suggestions and a few things to think about...
Wow! An exhaustive number of suggestions here.
Indaba ,
I've done this a number of times with very thick work pieces.
Multiple cuts, with either a handsaw or bandsaw to finish.
Then thicknesser to flatten.
Calculate the price of a bandsaw by deducting the cost of the ripping by someone else. Multiply the deduction by how many time you might be doing this in the future.
Bandsaws open up an whole new world of woodwoking and are an excellent addition to any collection. (Best investment I've made.)
On the router, we go by which is lighter. The work piece or the Router. (with exceptions of course) If the work piece is lighter then we push the work piece. If the Router is lighter then we push the router.
Using this same pricipal you might consider using your circular saw in hand held mode. I have no dought the maximum cutting depth will increase as well.
As Chris suggested make a few passed. You've got all day to do it right. And you'll be surprised with how little strength you have to use pushing the saw by hand than pushing the work piece.
Don't forget you need to make a smooth cut all the way through so set up your work area so you can make the cut without stopping. Else you'll have burn marks. (whether in hand held or table saw mode).
Ask the lady for a white candle and by rubbing, cover the table, fence, and the rough sawn wood with it. You'll find things slide much easier.
Your saw blade will probably be around the 3mm in width. This is a considerable amount of sawdust. All sawdust in Australia is detramental to you and your familys health. Please consider making these cuts outside away from family, open windows and external heaters/airconditioners.
Internally, the dust hangs around for days. It just needs a good gust of wind to put it in th eair again.
In hand held mode you can attach a vacuum cleaner to the outtake feed on your circular saw.
Once you've cut your timber to size, please remember that if its NOT aged or dried you could experiece more cracking and warping.
Plan for safety and enjoy the process of learning, handeling, and finishing.
Welcome aboard and all the best.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge
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24th November 2003, 09:48 AM #12Novice
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Thanks Barry.
I have already reduced the 1st piece to 130 x 150mm with the first cut and should be able to achieve the rest with the triton.
I agree with the dust comments though. I am off this morning to buy the Triton dust mask.
Reference a bandsaw, I would absolutely love one but as will all other tool purchases, I have to consider the budget. I have always felt that I have never used the Triton to it's fullest extent so I would like to use it first if I can.
regards,
Andrew
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26th November 2003, 08:29 AM #13
Excellent Reply
Hi Indaba,
What an excellent reply.
I've only had the respirator for a few weeks now and would like to hear about your purchase.
I managed the pricing war at bunnies during the WWW.
So I feel I did very well on the price.
Stangely, mine was missing the face shield straight out of the glue sealed box. But Triton (luckily just a 20 min drive away) and the spare parts guy changed that over straight away.
Using the Trition to its fullest extent requires review of their videos. I'd suggest once a month and just before any large project.
And of course the Triton forum here.
Especially the thread regarding the respirator.
Look forward to reading more from you.Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge