Cutting holes for concealed hinges

**al2** · 29th May 2012, 10:57 PM

I was trying to install Hettich concealed hinges onto 16mm doors and found out using A Forstner bit I tend to drill through the wood (despite using a drill press with stop). The hinge has to sit about 12.5 mm deep and the spur of the Forstner bit is another 2 or 3 mm long - does not leave much margin for errors. Attached are photos of a jig I did to overcome this problem.
First I use a the Forstner bit to drill the 35mm holes in my template - I did a few spare holes in case I stuff up any hole when I route. Attached are photos:
1. Template clamped ready to router
2. Plunge a few holes in the centre taking care not to route the side. Notice that when it is pluged fully, I could use the stem of the bit to go around the template hole to complete the hole in the door. Notice that I have stuffed template hole 1 and 2 as I moved the bit to the side of the template before the router is fully plunged
3. Shows the completed hole and its a snug fit - also notice the underside of the template to see the offset of hole from the edge of door
With this setup I have no problem routing holes for a 2.2 metre pantry door - imagine having to balance that on the drill press.

**dr4g0nfly** · 31st May 2012, 07:45 AM

Another problem overcome with ingenuity. Well done.

**Christos** · 31st May 2012, 09:30 PM

I like the way you think. No matter about the jig just move onto another one.

**Handyjack** · 31st May 2012, 10:17 PM

The Gods must be with me as I have always managed to do the holes with a cordless drill and a forstner bit. Just take a little bit at a time.

**al2** · 31st May 2012, 11:43 PM

Cristos - actually my original idea with the holes was to allow me to drill holes with different distances for the holes from the edge, as it would allow me to fit the doors with varying (0 to 4mm) front overlay. But since I was too eager and stuffed the first 2 holes, all I did was moved the position of the other screw to get the same distance from the edge I wanted for no3. I fact I'm not too worried about stuffing the holes of the jig - its easy enough to make another jig. I would not have thought of using this jig, except the hinge I was using was somehow deeper than others - but its a sturdier hinge and if you notice in the pic it even has an inbult piston for the slow close function.

**chambezio** · 1st June 2012, 12:42 AM

I have always taken the 35mm forstner bit to the saw doctor and get him to resharpen the point so it engages just a poofteenth before the bulk of the drill starts to cut. In normal forstner drilling its not a problem with the longer point but as you have said you are drilling to a depth of 12.5mm that leaves you no room for error. For drilling my doors on the drill press I have made a table that lets the doors rest on it with a fence to gauge 4mm from edge of hole to edge of door. The table even has a tape showing mm left and right of zero so the hinge is placed exactly where it needs to be.
You have gone to a lot of trouble with your router template but you will find the drill press is a lot quicker to use.

**A Duke** · 1st June 2012, 11:53 AM

A pattern following bit with a bearing might be a better bet than relying on the stem of the router bit as a guide.
Regards

**KorDes** · 1st June 2012, 06:02 PM

I've always used 18mm for doors, this solves the problem of the forstner going through the door. It's only a few dollars dearer.

**floody_85** · 1st June 2012, 06:56 PM

Originally Posted by KorDes

I've always used 18mm for doors, this solves the problem of the forstner going through the door. It's only a few dollars dearer.

We only use 18mm for our doors at work too

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