Thread: Cutting mitred trim to length - what's the trick??

I set up a stop on my mitre gauge once I'm happy with the first piece. Then I know all the other pieces will be the same length (right or wrong). I still use the sneak-up-on-it method to get the first piece just right though.

BTW, I think your mitres look just fine so far. Good luck with your project.

Sneaking up is the only way I've done it successfully. There's a good article in Australian Woodsmith 47 (Aug/Sep 06) on cutting mitred molding. I used one of the tips today. Cut a sacrificial fence to clamp on the mitre fence on the table saw, with some sandpaper taped on to prevent 'creeping' and the fence extending past the saw. Then after one cut, you have an accurate mark on the fence to cut the outside of the miter.

Also, do one corner at a time with the molding a bit longer. When you're happy with that, do the other corner.

The article explains it better.

Tex

There are two problems with cutting mitres.
First is any error is multiplied by a geometric factor.
Second is finding where what point you are actualy measuring and getting a reading from that, then cutting to that. Believe me its the bain of my life.

Most people do some sort of jiggery pokery to get round the problem.
Like contriving some way of coping with the inaccuracy.
for instance door trim.
No one makes door trim fit exactly to the opening its always a couple of mm back from the edge.
or cutting the job to fit the mitre
introducing square cuts mid run and cutting the mitres first.
Using filler.
cutting slightly oversize or undersize and forcing a fit.
or just sneaking up on it.

I've seen all sorts of butcherous and a couple of clever solutions but the most common decent solution is creeping up on it.

Think you've got a problem in timber.... try it in aluminium.

cheers

This thread does my heart good! Now I don't feel so alone, knowing that I'm not the only one who uses the creep up method.

Thanks everyone for your responses.

As Bob says, it's good to know you're not alone.

Ian

Hi all

Tomorrow I need to do mitres on aluminum - trim for my stainless steel splash backs - 12mm x 12mm angle.

1 thing I need to know - I would like 1 edge to be about 6-7mm any idea on how to cut it down - 1 peice is about 1.2m?

I was going to try using my Dremel. any other ideas or places were I could get it done or any one know where I can get angle 12mm x 6mm or there abouts.

Celeste

Jeez! All these years I thought it was me! I'm just no good at it, the saws' no good, or my mitre box was out of whack.
You have no idea of the relief.
(I use filler!)

If you want perfet mitres on trim.
Cut a little oversize (or indersize) and make the mitres join up.
If you get me.
I would be very surprised if you could cut an accurate mitre with a dremmel.

A good drop saw with an aluminium blade is the best, failiong that a saw bench with any good fine carbide blade and lots of care and eye (face ) protection.
Band saw and a file would be a fiddle but reasonable.

cheers

To me, cutting mitred trim is right up there with root canal therapy without anaesthetic!
If I can't avoid it, and I have such a job waiting for me on the bench, I cut oversize and trim down to size using my picture frame guillotine. Each guillotine cut is only a few thou' thick and, more importantly, it leaves a glass smooth face. I have found that there is a dimensional effect of a 'fuzzy' face vesus a 'shiny face'. If you cut to size and leave a 'fuzzy' face it will be undesize when you clamp it. This is especially noticeable if the trim is on the outside. However, if your trim is mounted on the inside then the 'fuzzy' face gives the necessary spring to give a neat fit.
So, for me, cut oversize and creep up on the dimension using mitre saw for inside trim and framing guillotine for outside ... although thick glue isn't bad either!
Fletty

Originally Posted by celeste

Hi all


1 thing I need to know - I would like 1 edge to be about 6-7mm any idea on how to cut it down - 1 peice is about 1.2m?


Celeste

If you are going to see the cut edge, I wouldn't try to cut it down.Better to visit your local aluminium distributor ,or probably even Bunnings and get it the size you need.

Tools

Originally Posted by Tools

If you are going to see the cut edge, I wouldn't try to cut it down.Better to visit your local aluminium distributor ,or probably even Bunnings and get it the size you need.

Tools

Problem is I have tried all over and cannot get exactly what I want, the 12mm x 12mm is as close as I can get.

Oh I am using a mitre box and aluminum hand saw ( one for fancy curtain tracks) to do the mitres and the dremel to trim the width to size.

Did not get to it today, definitely tomorrow - will let you know how it went.

Celeste

Celeste,
If I am understanding you correctly you want to create a 6x6 mm angle aluminium trim from a 12x12 mm, which is the smallest commercially available size.

Maybe some one else can comment because I've never done this myself but I believe you can cut aluminium with a tungsten tip blade in a table saw. 6 mm is a bit small so you'll need a zero clearance insert but I think that's the only way you'll get an acceptable straight edge

Ian

In stead of lookin for stock standard angle you may be better off looking at some of the trade mouldings.
Caravan mould for instance has a rounded profile with one long and one short leg to the angle.
There are specific mirror extrusions and all sorts of extrusions for various tradeds.
You need to look in the little blue book...... Bugger alcan dont do it any more.... I still have mine

cheers

Originally Posted by JackoH

Jeez! All these years I thought it was me! I'm just no good at it, the saws' no good, or my mitre box was out of whack.
You have no idea of the relief.
(I use filler!)

ME TOO!!!!!

This is better than therapy!

I can't beleive that how I do it has a term....The sneak up aproach! (filler has also been known to have a look in on my work )

When I was 17 one of the first jobs I did was to install a radar on an old putt putt in the Brissy River. Turns out it was Norm Wrights retirement boat ( famous shipwright ) the craftsmen were trimming the mitre's of the trims with rasps to get them perfect, I'm talking very slow and fine workmanship. I didn't know much about ww but I was impressed with their eye for detail.