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Thread: Cutting PVC Pipe
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27th November 2016, 05:31 PM #1Senior Member
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Cutting PVC Pipe
I have recently started to cut and fit the pipe work for the new Dust Collector in the Woodshed. My first cuts of the PVC pipe were nowhere near square and my concern was that these would create an uneven surface in the pipe work joins particularly on the bends
IMG20161127135157.jpg.
This uneven surface would create turbulence in the airflow and reduce the overall efficiency of the DC system. I tried clamping the pipe (hard to get a secure grip on the pipe with normal clamps), marking a cut line (easy to follow but the other end of the saw seemed to find a different path) using the mitre saw and rotating the pipe while cutting (downright dangerous) so I opened a bottle of wine and settled down to contemplate the problem.
I came up with a larger version of the mitre box. To guide the saw I used two pieces of ply spaced a little more than the thickness of the saw blade and mounted a cradle back from the end to support the pipe and keep it level. Top clamp is hinged on the right and tightened with a 1/4" threaded rod anchored in the bottom clamp, sandpaper on the bottom edge of the top clamp gripped the pipe and stopped any movement.
IMG20161127135358.jpgIMG20161127135457.jpg
The first cut was square to within 0.5mm so even though it took a bit of work to make the stand it will be worth the effort by the time I cut all the bits of pipe to finish the pipe work
IMG20161127135445.jpg
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27th November 2016 05:31 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th November 2016, 09:15 PM #2
I run a square piece of paper around pipe, mark off where cut needed, get 'friend' to hold down then out comes trusty 9" angle grinder
I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds
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27th November 2016, 09:47 PM #3
Marking off from a square edge in 4 or 5 places around the circumference and then joining the dots also works. 5" and a thin disk is my weapon of choice.
There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!
Tom Waits
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28th November 2016, 02:57 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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That miter box design is a very good trick.
I need that to cut some soapstone into slabs for carvings.
Thank you
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28th November 2016, 08:41 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Do you have or have access to a drop saw,I found that gives a good straight,clean cut
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28th November 2016, 10:01 AM #6.
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Looks good Dave given it solves the holding problem at the same time
Wish we had done something like that for the mens shed.
For shorter pieces such as making bast gates bits I find a bandsaw does a good job and then the burrs can be removed on a large belt sander.
Just make sure you hold the pice firmly especially until is cuts through the first layer of pipe as it wants to turn the pipe and it may drag any fingers than are in he way into the band.
Some folks think that PVC will gum up sanding belts/discs whereas it actually will clean belts and can be used as a cheap belt cleaning material.
I also use a belt sander to add an external bevel to pipe openings.
This makes it much easier to place into fitting and more importantly remove the pipe from fittings if required.
If you don't bevel the pipe you may be able to belt the pipe in but it will be a nightmare taking it out.
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28th November 2016, 12:42 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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A stainless steel 'curly girl' scourer does a fabulous job of cleaning up the cut ends.
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28th November 2016, 03:00 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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I mark square using a block or gauge, cut with a coarse hacksaw close to the line, then dress square to the mark on on the 300 mm disk of the sander. This cleans up all of the burrs and leaves a "store bought" edge which is perfectly square.
Regards,
Bob
Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.
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28th November 2016, 03:41 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Are you all set up to cut 6" and bigger pipe with accuracy?
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28th November 2016, 07:19 PM #10
For large PVC pipe, I mark the cut with a very long piece of adding-machine/cash-register paper tape. Masking tape at the inner end, then wrapped around several times with the edges aligned, and a final masking tape fixing. I cut to the edge of the paper with a hacksaw in several shallow passes, rotating the pipe. After separation, I dress the cut by scraping with a utility knife.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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29th November 2016, 04:31 PM #11rrich Guest
Did you consider renting a plumbers pipe cutter. The type with two rollers and a circular knife. As you tighten the handle the knife cuts into the pipe. Swing the cutter around the pipe and for each rotation tighten the handle ½ turn.
The cutter that I have is good up to about 65mm but I have seen larger models.
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29th November 2016, 07:11 PM #12.
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Those cutters are nice to use and because we had so much to cut at the mens shed I looked around and the biggest one I could find was 66mm.
With PVC pipe you don't want to be renting as it's inevitable that there will be updates, down dates, side dates and back dates.
I think David's solution is probably one of the best for solo DIY'ers because it solves the problem of holding as well as cutting straight.
While I use a BS the problem (as will be the case for most DIY) will be tackling those first couple of cuts on a 6m length as this length will sometimes be longer than a DIYer's shed.
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30th November 2016, 11:23 AM #13Senior Member
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Garage sales and/or guys like plumbers who are retiring are the place to source those BobL. I picked up a pipe cutter years ago that will cut 90mm pipe and I think from memory I only paid about $25 at a garage sale being run by the son of a plumber who had passed away. At the time I think the good quality ones like Rigid or Rothenberger were around another $120 on top of that brand new. I'd hate to think what the 4" or 6" ones would cost now. The other good thing about using one of these is that as you cut, it chamfers the outside edge slightly. Before that I used to cut any 90mm PVC pipe on my older Makita 14" drop saw.
Stewie
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30th November 2016, 12:53 PM #14.
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Here we go, for only $427 Ridgid Reed Steel Pipe Cutter 4-6" Hinged 4 Wheel (Wheels not included) | eBay That is without cutting wheels which cost $100 for s set of 4.
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2nd December 2016, 05:31 PM #15Senior Member
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6" pipe is fine but any larger pipes will need a new jig as they are only good for one size
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