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28th July 2015, 09:40 PM #1Senior Member
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Cutting Wide Timber on Compound Mitre Saw?
I would like to cut up to 80cm to 1M wide chipboard & mdf pieces as the compound mitre saw is the only thing I have that cuts square. I presume slide/cut as far as it will go one side, then turn the piece over and align the laser near the line exactly where is was. Is this pretty dangerous to do? As not only would the pieces need to be clamped down, but supports underneath the timber to keep it level. Would experienced operators even do this sort of thing?thanks
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28th July 2015, 10:00 PM #2Taking a break
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As long as everything is supported I wouldn't call it dangerous, but you still won't be able to cut all the way through.
Go buy a cheap circular saw, a long piece of aluminium extrusion and a couple of clamps, it'll work much better.
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28th July 2015, 10:02 PM #3Senior Member
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29th July 2015, 04:47 AM #4rrich Guest
On my SCMS I can cut about 550 MM wide, very accurately. The requirement is timber with parallel edges or ripped to width on a table saw. Then use clamps. My SCMS (DeWalt) has a hold down attachment or clamp.
Position the timber where you want to cut and use the hold down or clamp. Make the first partial cut.
Flip the timber over and use the blade in the fist cut to accurately position for the second cut. Use the hold down or the clamp. Again verify the accuracy of the cut with the blade in the kerf. Make any adjustments necessary and make the second cut.
Beware that you will never make an "invisible" cut. The problem is that the end grain is cut in different directions and will show. However a bit of sanding will erase the evidence of the double cut.
As an alternative, have you considered making a cross cut sled?
OR
Clamp a straight piece of timber to the underside of your work and allow that to ride against the edge of your table saw top?
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29th July 2015, 10:17 AM #5
I needed to trim the bottom of a door and all I had was the sliding mitre saw. I Marked the door, using a second person laid the door down and cut just over half way to the line. Rotated the door, lined the blade with the cut then finished it off. Afterwards it looked fine for a door bottom and if the saw was perfectly aligned then you would get away with it on sheet goods.
I had nothing else at the time and was on site. For a more permanent solution a circ saw and a straight edge would be the way to go. I have seen people use a melamine shelf side since they are usually made perfectly straight as straight edges.
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