Thread: Decking - nails or screws?

Originally Posted by Bernmc

If you can afford them, Wurth's proprietary Assy4 drive is really good. They do a range of decking screws - Decking Screws - Premium Quality, Stainless Steel - Wurth Australia

We've just replaced an old timber/treated pine nailed deck. We couldn't walk on it barefoot thanks to all the nail heads poking out. We've gone for recycled/composite modwood boards with klevaclip concealed fixing, so not a screw or nail in sight. It looks very nice.

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I demolished a Modwood deck and squares which was 20 years old as it was no longer needed and gave the decking to a friend to build another deck with as it was too good to throw out. The one thing I noticed was the high surface temperatures in summer that meant the deck was too hot to walk on bare foot at times which was a problem as I never wear shoes unless I am forced to do so. I would use Modwood over pine any day, while more expensive it does not warp and twist and outlasts any pine deck but boy it sure is heavy.

Originally Posted by tonzeyd

... Tip i was shown years ago is to rub the screw in your hair or oily rag before you drive it home, significantly reduces the likelihood of damaging the screw head.

Good tip. But unless you are Elvis then your hair is probably not greasy enough. I just use a small sponge dipped in vegetable oil. Works easily.

Over the years I have used many lubricants - soap, detergent, lanolin, butter, cooking oils, vaseline, parafin oil, mineral oil, grease, floor polish, etc - all worked well.

One mate advocates butter because it goes rancid, loses its lubricating properties and allegedly the screws stay screwed better. Another advocates lanolin because it stays in place and allegedly makes screw removal easier. Frankly, I cannot detect much difference between any of them. All are much better than nothing.

Using a cordless driver and pre-drilled and countersunk holes I have never found the need for lubricating screws. Perhaps it is an idea from the days of slotted screws and wooden handle screw drivers.??

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Using a cordless driver and pre-drilled and countersunk holes I have never found the need for lubricating screws. Perhaps it is an idea from the days of slotted screws and wooden handle screw drivers.??

It was for Brass screws because the friction makes then heat up and snap, but Stainless Steel screws can quite easily snap and any deck near the coast should use them.

I would look at putting G Tape on top of the joists before laying deck boards

Originally Posted by Camelot

It was for Brass screws because the friction makes then heat up and snap, but Stainless Steel screws can quite easily snap and any deck near the coast should use them.

I have literally put in thousands of SS deck screws and never had a snapping problem if the holes are pre-drilled and countersunk which can be done in one operation. Get the driver a bit off line with phillips heads and being so soft the driver cams out very easily though Wehra have diamond tipped drivers that largely overcome that problem.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Using a cordless driver and pre-drilled and countersunk holes I have never found the need for lubricating screws. Perhaps it is an idea from the days of slotted screws and wooden handle screw drivers.??

Depends what you are screwing into.

I have sheared many a stainless deck screw putting them into hardwood. My best advice is to use a well known good brand. I got boxes of stainless decking screws here that I wont use for decks.

Also, if you do nail it, then use a ring shank nail. A good ring shank nail is almost as good as a screw and you can find them in stainless as well.

The biggest deck I put down was pine over hardwood joists and pre-drilling means a reliable clutch setting can be used that works just about every time. I use a Festool combined drill & counter sink to do the holes and yes good quality screws are a must. Doing the counter sink means the screws can be driven in until they are exactly flush and not below the board top surface so no holes for water to sit in or dirt to accumulate.

Originally Posted by Camelot

I would look at putting G Tape on top of the joists before laying deck boards

Thanks Camelot, I did some googling and it seems to be a good idea for the damp Otways environment. One question that I didn't find an answer to though is can you use it on damp timber? The framing is already down and getting rained on every few days with not a lot of sunlight to properly dry it out at this time of year.
Thanks

You can u8se it on damp timber, also use the 75mm one (for bearers) it gives far better protection to the sides of the joists as it effectively gives 15mm overhang each side.
110mm DPC is also an alternative if you want to save money, just crease the edges down a bit after you run it out and pin before fixing the boards

Originally Posted by rwbuild

use the 75mm one (for bearers) it gives far better protection to the sides of the joists as it effectively gives 15mm overhang each side.

Thanks for the advice Ray. I was already thinking about using the 75mm on the joists to get the overhang as you suggested. My bearers are 90mm (2x45mm laminated) so I was thinking of overlapping the 75mm tape to get the top and side coverage. If what I have seen is correct you can overlap it OK whereas the tape won't stick sticky side to sticky side. The joists and bearers are already down so a bit of cutting involved to cover the bearers although of course there will be no coverage where the joists sit on the bearers.
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Get 150mm DPC and place on top of the joists above the bearers but let it sag between the joists until it touches the top of the bearer, put this on first before the joist sealer strips

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

The biggest deck I put down was pine over hardwood joists and pre-drilling means a reliable clutch setting can be used that works just about every time. I use a Festool combined drill & counter sink to do the holes and yes good quality screws are a must. Doing the counter sink means the screws can be driven in until they are exactly flush and not below the board top surface so no holes for water to sit in or dirt to accumulate.

I always pre-drill, but some screw are just rubbish.

I would be interested in hearing from anyone that has used the Kreg decking screws. They are getting a bit of press in the local tool shops here in QLD now. Bit pricey though.

The Wurth screws are probably the best (and most expensive) and will easily go in without predrilling but I still use a Wurth countersinking bit first as I find the finish neater and more consistent
There are several knock-off brands about that would do the job fine