Thread: Decking - screws or nails? best choice

I reckon screws are best. Nails will pop out which could be dangerous.

If you want to buy cheap stainless steel screws then you can contact Jim on 1300 589 836. This is his website. He is a nice bloke. I ordered 2000 on Monday and they arrived today. Also, don't forget to get a smart-bit. It will save you heaps of time.


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Thanks Mate - good tip and great projects

If you want it to look real smart then you can get some colour matched screws from TimberFix

I tried but unfortunately they only had a dark red colour in stock. It should be perfect for Merbau. Enjoy.

i think hex head screws are best for this job they are less likely to come out compared with normal screws

I have also been told that 'helical' nails will also do a great job.

Any thoughts?

How wide are your slats?

For 75mm or 90mm I woul certainly use screws.

As a furniture make I am not interested in using nails for anything. They are horrible.

I have just finished doing a very large deck with hidden fastners. VERY solid, reduces issues with joist rot, no unsightly nails OR screw holes, automatically keeps consistent board spacing. I used ArchiDeck, but there are many other brands & systems. I would avoid the metal claw variety & stick with the type that uses a groove in the edge of the boards. I used a biscuit joiner, but some boards now come pre grooved for hidden fasteners. I used ArchDeck as they have both a 3mm and a 6mm spacing system. I needed the 3mm as I rebated the board top edge 3mm & finished them with 9mm caulking, like a ships deck.

Board shrinkage and expansion with weather can be a bit of a hassle with some of the screwless systems. Screws and nails are very simple to repair if the need arise. Personally I like screws, 50mm stainless work well.

Tips for screwing: If your boards are straight enough, lay them out and space them with tile spacers and wedges. Use a string line to marks and punch your holes. Pre-drill the board thickness plus about 5-10mm for pine joints, or full screw depth for hardwood joints. Countersink a little just so the screw doesn't 'frey' the hole when you screw. Apply a little wax or oil to the screw before screwing it in, this will limit the torques stress applied to the screw head and help prevent the heads snapping off. With cheap screws this is a bigger problem that with better quality items. Also, if you're using a hand-hels power drill to screw them in, use more speed rather than less, this also helps limit stress on the screw heads. Lastly, review the screws after one season and tighten if required.

This all sounds like a lot of work, but you'll be looking at the flaws for years it you don't do it properly the first time.

I totally agree. It seems a lot of work but you will see the benefit in years to come.

I spent the weekend to lay half of the deck (the difficult half). Every pilot holes were marked, drilled and countersinked. I used a square to mark them so they all lined up and had the same distance to the edge of the board.

In pic 2, I repaired the rotten joints with some hardwood boards (thanks Studley). Every boards were painted 3 coats before they were bolted togther. Every boards are protected by a sheet of DPC.

This deck is made to last a long time.

Thanks Fellas- The info has been invaluable.

What is DPC- ('Every boards are protected by a sheet of DPC')

CHeers

Mike

DPC damp proof course. a water proof layer ,

tar impregnated felt . plastic film , brushed on tar . etc

Originally Posted by Wongo

...Also, don't forget to get a smart-bit. It will save you heaps of time....

I will take this comment back.

I belive it is made for the American market. It does not work for the screws we use in Australia. The countersink is too shallow, so it leaves about half a screw head above the surface. Also it does not give a smooth cut.

I wasted $32 for nothing.

Just a quick nudge....one of the forum sponsors (SCROOZ) may be able to help with the appropriate items and the smart bits.

And (hint hint) the Decking forum on our sister forum www.renovateforum.com has all the appropriate info there (hint) (hint)