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22nd January 2014, 09:49 AM #16
He's too thirsty to be much good at dusting.
Cheers, Bill
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22nd January 2014, 05:16 PM #17
Dale
The cleat morticed in to the sides will be strong enough just leave 100/200 mm siting above.
And sit back admiring your handy work
If unsure over engineer is my motto
A little more on timber a little less anxiety.
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22nd January 2014, 05:40 PM #18
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22nd January 2014, 08:46 PM #19
Sorry Dale
I would make the cleat say 120mm that's a standard off the shelf pine from Bunnings I think.
And set them down from the top by say 200mm
So infect u have 200mm of the cupboard side bearing( pushing down) on the cleat.
Or the other option is contact me through my email and book me for the job
Rate would be say 100 hand made saws (my design)plus a life time supply of saw stuff I need
If that seems fair lol
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22nd January 2014, 08:50 PM #20
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22nd January 2014, 09:01 PM #21
I can't do it for any less have u not heard about the economy ???
If you get stuck would be happy to swing buy one night next week and give u some one on one pointers if you like.
PM if you like
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23rd January 2014, 12:47 AM #22
I take it you mean the groove in the left hand side into which the boards are captive in, it's one way to go and as far as I can see would be OK, as long as there's room for each board to move width ways.
From looking at BP's cab the cleat is hard up against the top so as long as it is fixed to stop it from coming out (screws) for the cleat to fail it would have to shear off the tails/pins in the top/side joint.
Pete
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