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Thread: Dining Table Top
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13th October 2005, 06:53 PM #1
Dining Table Top
Hi all,
I am embarking on a new dining table. Have decided to use Myrtle for the top.
1800 x 1000 in size.
Should I go with veneered MDF for the top ($160 for 2400 x 1200 x 18m sheet from Gunns timbers) or 5 x 200 x 22mm (dressed 3 sides) lengths and biscuit them together.
Will there be any difference in appearance (supposing I dont stuff the second option)?
Can you tell if it is veneer once finished.
Am I cheating using the veneer and will be scowled upon and shunned at the wood show .
I am happy to get some good clamps at the show to do it properly.
Thanks all
dazzler
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13th October 2005, 08:14 PM #2I am happy to get some good clamps at the show to do it properly.There's no such thing as too many Routers
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13th October 2005, 08:23 PM #3Originally Posted by himzol
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13th October 2005, 08:28 PM #4Registered
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Originally Posted by dazzler
Al :eek:
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13th October 2005, 08:39 PM #5Originally Posted by dazzler
2. Yes
3. Tas Myrtle is very expensive (even if you live in Tas)
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13th October 2005, 09:03 PM #6
Solid Myrtle Top
At around $20.00 a lineal metre for 200 x 25 mm myrtle your top, in solid myrtle will cost you around $200.00, if you can get the lengths in multiples of your requirements, else your will be paying more and getting some off cuts to use.
Don't forget if you use veneered board, you will also need solid timber for the edges. Pay a visit to Gunns veneer mill at Somerset, they have tonnes of magnificent figured myrtle veneers which would need to be laid up, if you are game.
You will see veneers used in some of the items entered in the Wood Show competition.
Kev M
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13th October 2005, 09:14 PM #7Originally Posted by KevM
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13th October 2005, 09:26 PM #8
And you should see our sisters.......mmmmmmmmm
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14th October 2005, 01:03 AM #9
Id go for the solid wood, veneer looks like... well veneer(depends if its radialy cut, or strips).
What about wide solid edges and a burl veneer in the middle?....................................................................
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14th October 2005, 01:02 PM #10
I agree with the solid timber vote, with one caveat -- you'll need to get the final thing perfectly flat or it will look crap. Doing that with a hand sander is very difficult. Once you have the top joined I'd be inclined to find professional assistance (read: a very wide belt sander) to finish the surface down to about 240 grit. You can then take it down to glass with a hand random orbital.
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14th October 2005, 06:38 PM #11
Dazzler,
You might want to try Brewsters in Campbell Street, they are a bit cheaper than Gunns I think. They also do 1800 x 900 sheets. By the time you add a breadboard edge you are nearly up to 1000.
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14th October 2005, 06:44 PM #12
How much (little!) !
Cor! I wish...
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14th October 2005, 06:47 PM #13
Agree with Custos - flat is a must. However, if you have a decent jointer #7 or #8, that can be used pretty effectively - and planing (finishing with a smoother) will bring out the grain rather than dull it as sanding will. Some more effort perhaps, but worth it if you want the piece to really stand out. Off course, I'm referring to solid timber here! Planing veneer might not be a great idea
Cheers!
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14th October 2005, 07:42 PM #14Originally Posted by Stubchain
Dropped in and they only had the 24 x 12 sheets but the price was good.
THanks
dazzler
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14th October 2005, 08:03 PM #15
I love Myrtle but still remember how hard it was - someone's suggestion of a burl inset and solid edges sounds brilliant, if it is available!
Veneering has been a practice for many hundreds of years so I feel it is a valid use of the material so long as the look is there - a lot of leaves look pretty bland to me.
have funSteve
Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
Australia
....catchy phrase here
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