Thread: Dog surgery before or after?

If you're going to use square or rectangular dogs it would be easier to cut the holes with a router before gluing. I'm currently at a similar stage of bench building but have decided on round dog holes and I'll be leaving them until I've finished the top to make it easier to set them out where I want them.

I hadnt thought about using the router. That would make things even easier. I have the wood on tressels so I can probably see where I want them. I'd like to do it by hand, but Im worried about stuffing it up. Its really old, hard wood.

I just thought of another problem, vises. Is it best to set the bench up for these now or after gluing or can they be worried about after the whole thing is built. Particularly after a face vise and a tail vise. If the price is right I'll get a shoulder on there too, just for the experience - and Im guessing this needs to be built into the bench.

Is there any web sites around that detail that kind of installation? Or should I just wait altogether and get the vises first?

Thanks for any nudges.

Its really old, hard wood.

Yep, mine too, old recycled timber from houses.

I just thought of another problem, vises. Is it best to set the bench up for these now or after gluing or can they be worried about after the whole thing is built.

For a tail vice I think you need all the hardware or a good drawing of what's needed where before you start. I'm just going to have a standard Record clone so I'm not too worried about getting the vice yet.

If the price is right I'll get a shoulder on there too, just for the experience - and Im guessing this needs to be built into the bench.

The screw for the shoulder vice doesn't cost much and I've seen a cool way to have a face vice that can be converted to a shoulder when you want it here.

And check out this site for more ideas.

Sweet! Not a bad way of turning one vise into three. Very good.

I can see how the 'front' vice converts to the 'shoulder' easily enough. Good idea - I've always wished I could have the conveniences of a shoulder vice without having the thing sticking out to snag sensitive bits of anatomy in crowded workspaces. This is quite a neat solution.
But I'm blowed if I can see how the 'tail' vice connects with the front one - am obviously missing something essential - can someone enlighten me?
Also - there must be a 'real' tail vice off to the right, somewhere, else the row of dog holes down the front is a bit superfluous......

And yes, Timbecon had very serviceable-looking tail and front vice screws at the Brisbane wood show for very reasonable prices. Making a tail vice looks highly complex, but is really pretty easy once you actually get down to it (yes, you have to incorporate the 'classic' style into the overall design of the top). I made my first 'proper' tail vice about 20 years ago, and can't imagine how I survived for so long without one!
Cheers,

There's links at the bottom of the page for drawings of the vice setup and construction notes as well. It's a pity he doesn't go into a bit more detail though, he seems to be a very cluey dude.

Thanks, Dan - didn't check the links out before, ( ) but I'm still a bit mystified as to how the moveable ('jaw' lip??) on the end of the bench is operated. My guess is that it's an extension of a piece fixed to the two guide rods either side of the screw for the front vice, but that's not clear from the elevation drawing.
Yes, it's a clever bit of work, alright, and worth filing away for future reference, particularly the front vice/shoulder vice idea - I like it!
Cheers,

Looks to me like the end of the vise screw is permanently attached to the 'tail'vise jaw , maybe in a captive socket. Clever. A bit superfluous tho as the main jaw has the same width capacity. I suppose the position of the workpiece may be better for some operations.

As a thought, one could do this within the bench top, with the jaws open to the side.