Thread: Which Dovetail Marker?

Very interesting there Jeremy, How is it to use?

Uno problem with the "Dovetail Master". The sides aren't square. I dunno how I stuffed it up but I did

Originally Posted by funkychicken

Hey all, I'm back!

So yes, I'm asking which dovetail marker to get.

Options: (feel free to suggest others)
Colin Clenton $138
AWR Dovetail Master $35
Derek Cohen's Marker $30
Chris Vesper $69 (not to keen on this one)

And before you say the Colin Clenton Marker keep in mind $$. I would love to have one but I'm supposed to be saving up for a shed. If you think the Colin Clenton is the absolute. The only one worth having, then say so.





Cheerio,
Funky C

Funky ,
Make your own like these from aluminium angle .
took about 30mins

Kev.

Originally Posted by Woodlee

Funky ,
Make your own like these from aluminium angle .
took about 30mins

Kev.

You have a point there

I'm not sure if I posted these pics before ...

A few options (to my brass markers) - Lie-Nielsen...



WoodJoy ..




My infilled and dovetailed dovetail marker in Blackwood and brass ..



And a simple dovetailed marker in Jarrah you can make...



Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by derekcohen

I'm not sure if I posted these pics before ...

Regards from Perth

Derek

You have
In reference to you making dovetails markers from a square bar of brass. Do you know you can buy brass angle?

Originally Posted by funkychicken

Very interesting there Jeremy, How is it to use?

Haven't given it a whirl yet, but I willpost my impressions when I do.

Great thread. Guess what I'll be doing with some aluminium offcut if SWMBO gives me some time off tomorrow...

One question that will reveal my inexperience - does the ratio of 1:6 mean that the dovetail will narrow by 1mm for every 6mm of depth? If so, is this 1mm off each side of the dovetail, or 0.5mm off each side (thus totalling 1mm)? If not, what does it mean? And do different ratios suit different timbers (that's the impression I'm getting from posts). And if you're confused by this post, don't worry because so am I. I think.

Peter.

Originally Posted by PeteMan

One question that will reveal my inexperience -

Maybe I should learn to count. That's 4 questions.

Originally Posted by PeteMan

does the ratio of 1:6 mean that the dovetail will narrow by 1mm for every 6mm of depth?

Yep

Originally Posted by PeteMan

If so, is this 1mm off each side of the dovetail, or 0.5mm off each side (thus totalling 1mm)?

1mm off each side

I have put my answers in your question paragraph (snap FC)

Originally Posted by PeteMan

One question that will reveal my inexperience - does the ratio of 1:6 mean that the dovetail will narrow by 1mm for every 6mm of depth? Yes
If so, is this 1mm off each side of the dovetail, or 0.5mm off each side (thus totalling 1mm)? It is the slope of the sides of the angle , so it's 1 mm off each side.
If not, what does it mean? Not applicable
And do different ratios suit different timbers (that's the impression I'm getting from posts).Controversial this one - those who say yes, say 1:6 for hardwood and 1:8 for softwood. I think that the rationale is essentially that the steeper angle suits hardwood because it can keep the sharp angles because of its finer structure while with softwood (typically pine) the structure is looser and the tails and pins need to be straighter to avoid breakage. That said the real question is how good they look when you do them.

And if you're confused by this post, don't worry because so am I. I think.

Peter.

Hi Pete

If you wish to make your own, I have a tutorial here:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...rsinbrass.html

Show us when you are done.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks to all who helped me out here. I'm figuring that if I can start with making a few basic items with a few basic tools, I can get into actually doing stuff while saving for more expensive tools. I'm guessing that learning the basic techniques in this way can only help me be a better woodworker.

Thanks again.

Noone answered Pete's question (you WERE only allowed 1! ) on use of different slope angles, though he sort of answered it himself.

Yes, the softer the wood, the lower the angle it will support (edges of tails get very fragile & break off easily when fitting, causing much gnashing of teeth & blue air). However, you really don't need much angle on any dovetail for it to do what it's intended to do, i.e. provide mechanical strength to the joint in one direction. I have markers of several angles, but tend to use 1 in 7 the most as it is a middling choice that suits all of the woods I regularly use. Steeper angles start to look a bit goofy if you go extreme.

What's just as important as slope is the size of the pins. Wafer thin pins look nifty in many situations, but are not as mechanically strong as thick ones, obviously. I've had to repair several old drawers with very fine dovetails that didn't stand up to long use.

The pins on this kitchen table are 1:7 & the pin width is my idea of compromise for a drawer that carries a bit of a load & gets used a lot. They look a little steeper than they really are because of the perspective....

Woops - sorry Jeremy - just repeated part of your answer...

Cheers,

Hi Ian

I love that drawer and, especially, I LOVE that rose She-oak. I assume it is off your farm (I still have "our" knob and tote for my LV LA Smoother and think of you every time I use it ... thinks ... will Ian send me a container load of that stunning timber ...).

I have markers of several angles, but tend to use 1 in 7 the most

As I do. I find 1:8 too shallow, particularly with dovetails in slim boards (say 3/8" thick and under). Woodies in the US tend to use thicker boards than we do here and in the UK, so they are comfortable with 1:8

Pete, this is how 1:7 is calculated. I thought I had explained this in my link below, but probably not as it was not intended to do that ..



(The angle is not measured. This is just for illustration).

The other area to watch for is just how skinny you want to make things. Ian, I like what you have done on the drawer. It is a sensible width (of the dovetail apex, that is). With wide points one may as well do them on a machine. Skinny dovetails are one of the areas that separate handcut from machine cut work.

Sometime one can go too far .. these are fragile to cut ..



Regards from Perth

Derek