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  1. #1
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    Default Dovetails - transferring tails to pinboard

    Watched a bunch of videos and it seems like there are 2 techniques to transfer your tails to the pin board.

    This technique seems like the most common
    YouTube

    where you remove the waste from your tail board and then transfer with your knife

    Then there is Rob Cosman's technique
    YouTube

    Where you leave the waste and use the kerf from the tail board to start a kerf on your pin board using your saw. You need to offset the positioning of your tail board though so the kerf is in the exact location.

    I have not attempted to cut any dovetails yet.

    My question is - with the first technique, when cutting the pins, are you placing your saw so that the kerf is on the waste side of your knife line (ideally so that edge of the kerf touches the line exactly)? Or do you stick your saw into the knife line?

    What technique do you guys all use?

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  3. #2
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    Don't measure, just cut

    CHRIS

  4. #3
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    I usually use method 1, in which case all cuts are on the waste side of the mark.
    I prefer not to run a scribe line with a marking gauge across the board to mark the bottom of the cuts. Instead I make nicks at the outer edges and align a squared, hardwood paring block across the piece with the block edge to the nicks. Clamp the block and pare down from the face side.

  5. #4
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    I cut my pins first, then mark the tails out from them. The reason for this is that on boxes & drawers, I use London pins, which are very thin. If the tails are cut first it can be difficult to get the awl in to mark out the tails. Once they're marked with the awl, I highlight the marks with a pencil line, which makes it easier to split.

    through dovetails 015.jpg

    I cut tails and pins by splitting the line, with the saw on the waste side. A tip when cutting the tails is to have the board tilted to the angle of the cut, so the weight of the saw does the work of driving the cut vertically.

    through dovetails 016.jpg
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  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    I cut my pins first, then mark the tails out from them. The reason for this is that on boxes & drawers, I use London pins, which are very thin. If the tails are cut first it can be difficult to get the awl in to mark out the tails. Once they're marked with the awl, I highlight the marks with a pencil line, which makes it easier to split.

    through dovetails 015.jpg

    I cut tails and pins by splitting the line, with the saw on the waste side. A tip when cutting the tails is to have the board tilted to the angle of the cut, so the weight of the saw does the work of driving the cut vertically.

    through dovetails 016.jpg
    interesting - just googled some images:
    https://i.pinimg.com/originals/67/41...e7283d93d9.jpg

    is the joint weaker when the pins are that skinny?

  7. #6
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    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    Watched a bunch of videos and it seems like there are 2 techniques to transfer your tails to the pin board.


    What technique do you guys all use?
    If you are not familiar with my articles, then you have not been reading the forums for long

    Through dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...ovetails3.html



    Half-Blind dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...hBlueTape.html



    Mitred Through Dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...feeTable2.html



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwertyu View Post
    interesting - just googled some images:
    https://i.pinimg.com/originals/67/41...e7283d93d9.jpg

    is the joint weaker when the pins are that skinny?
    I presume that it would be if you tested it to failure by applying a load that broke the pins, but how often would such a load apply? If the failure was because of the glue failing, there should be no difference.

    I've also tried Derek's technique, and it works well too, but I've stuck with the way I'm used to because, well, I'm used to it and it works for me.
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  9. #8
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    Jan 2008
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    The trick which helped me was to score fairly deeply with the knife then put a wide chisel one or two mm away from the line on the waste side and make a groove to the knife line. The saw cut starts in the groove.
    Cheers, Glen

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