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10th September 2019, 09:46 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Dovetails - transferring tails to pinboard
Watched a bunch of videos and it seems like there are 2 techniques to transfer your tails to the pin board.
This technique seems like the most common
YouTube
where you remove the waste from your tail board and then transfer with your knife
Then there is Rob Cosman's technique
YouTube
Where you leave the waste and use the kerf from the tail board to start a kerf on your pin board using your saw. You need to offset the positioning of your tail board though so the kerf is in the exact location.
I have not attempted to cut any dovetails yet.
My question is - with the first technique, when cutting the pins, are you placing your saw so that the kerf is on the waste side of your knife line (ideally so that edge of the kerf touches the line exactly)? Or do you stick your saw into the knife line?
What technique do you guys all use?
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10th September 2019 09:46 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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11th September 2019, 12:02 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
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Don't measure, just cut
CHRIS
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11th September 2019, 01:04 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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I usually use method 1, in which case all cuts are on the waste side of the mark.
I prefer not to run a scribe line with a marking gauge across the board to mark the bottom of the cuts. Instead I make nicks at the outer edges and align a squared, hardwood paring block across the piece with the block edge to the nicks. Clamp the block and pare down from the face side.
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11th September 2019, 06:48 PM #4
I cut my pins first, then mark the tails out from them. The reason for this is that on boxes & drawers, I use London pins, which are very thin. If the tails are cut first it can be difficult to get the awl in to mark out the tails. Once they're marked with the awl, I highlight the marks with a pencil line, which makes it easier to split.
through dovetails 015.jpg
I cut tails and pins by splitting the line, with the saw on the waste side. A tip when cutting the tails is to have the board tilted to the angle of the cut, so the weight of the saw does the work of driving the cut vertically.
through dovetails 016.jpg
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11th September 2019, 09:32 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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interesting - just googled some images:
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/67/41...e7283d93d9.jpg
is the joint weaker when the pins are that skinny?
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12th September 2019, 12:13 AM #6
If you are not familiar with my articles, then you have not been reading the forums for long
Through dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...ovetails3.html
Half-Blind dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...hBlueTape.html
Mitred Through Dovetails: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...feeTable2.html
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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12th September 2019, 09:10 AM #7
I presume that it would be if you tested it to failure by applying a load that broke the pins, but how often would such a load apply? If the failure was because of the glue failing, there should be no difference.
I've also tried Derek's technique, and it works well too, but I've stuck with the way I'm used to because, well, I'm used to it and it works for me.
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12th September 2019, 05:07 PM #8Senior Member
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The trick which helped me was to score fairly deeply with the knife then put a wide chisel one or two mm away from the line on the waste side and make a groove to the knife line. The saw cut starts in the groove.
Cheers, Glen
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