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9th July 2011, 09:30 PM #1
Draw boring a Mortise and Tenon Joint.
I've just been watching some youtube clips demonstrating draw boring to tighten up a mortise and tenon joint.
I noticed that the dowel pins they were using were also handmade, is this a requirment to have it work or could it be done useing modern dowel? I was thnking mutli-groove to better take the glue.
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9th July 2011, 09:39 PM #2
Mychael
I don't think it matters what you use. Hand made dowels are normally used so the timber matches, but equally it can be so the timber contrasts. Ready made dowels are very limited in types of timber available.
It is also my impression that the grooves are to let glue escape rather than increase the holding power. The old method before fluted or grooved dowels were available was to plane a very slight flat on one side. This achieved the same relieving of glue pressure.
Remember the holes in the tenon and the mortice are deliberately drilled out of alignment to pull the joint together.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
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9th July 2011, 09:41 PM #3
I have done draw boring only once and that was just so that I could try it out.
My understanding is to have the wall of the pin smooth to stop the groves being crushed by the side walls when the two items come together.
As there is extra length this get cut off and then sanded or planed flushed with the surface. I would not want to see the grooves at the end of the piece. Others may have different thoughts?
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9th July 2011, 10:23 PM #4
Thanks. I just want to have a bit of a play. See how I go at it, might be a project for the next bench.
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9th July 2011, 10:48 PM #5
The dowels are rived to ensure that the grain is straight. Otherwise they are at risk of snapping.
Some argue for straight dowels/pins, which is probably a modern derivation, as traditionally the pegs were tapered.
Pictorial of drawboring using a rived and shopmade dowel/peg: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Drawboring.html
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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9th July 2011, 11:19 PM #6
I usualy use a smooth straight pin but just put a slight chamfer on the end so it can make a smooth transition through the tenon. My draw bore pin is an old sharpening steel, does the job.
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9th July 2011, 11:36 PM #7
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10th July 2011, 12:30 AM #8.
I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.
Regards, Woodwould.
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10th July 2011, 10:51 AM #9
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